Making sure you wire a boat switch panel correctly is absolutely critical. Whether you’re talking about the livewells, lights or bilge pumps, if that switch panel isn’t proper, sooner or later something won’t work. Worse, improper wiring could even lead to a meltdown and potentially, a fire aboard the boat.

Before digging into the details, there are a few important items you’ll need to know regardless of the specifics of the job. First, always follow the manufacturer’s recommendations when it comes to wire gauge, fuse and/or breaker size, and other specifics. Most boats and marine accessories are built to American Boat and Yacht Council (ABYC) standards, which include wiring and switch-panel specifics. These should always be adhered to. We also need to note that all boats are a bit different, and there are often good reasons to make exceptions to the generalizations we’re making here or do things a bit differently.

Choosing a Switch Panel for a Boat

The panel you’ll need depends on the size of your boat and the number of systems it has. As a rule of thumb, always choose a panel that has several additional switches to the ones you need to wire up. That way, you can add more accessories down the road and will have the switches available for use. Naturally, the switch panel must be rated for marine use and if it will be exposed, waterproof.

You can choose between a number of switch styles, which generally includes rocker switches, toggle switches or push-buttons. Most are illuminated, but not all are, and illumination can be quite helpful so you can see what’s activated and what isn’t at a glance. You can also get a switch panel with breakers or one with fuses. Breaker panels tend to cost a bit more, but they’re far more convenient since they allow you to reset the switch without having to carry fuses and replace them when necessary. However, breakers will have a set number of amps as opposed to being able to change fuses for different sizes. Sometimes you’ll see panels with no breakers or fuses, but in that case, a separate fuse or breaker panel must be added.

Also consider how many multi-position switches you need. If you want your running and anchor lights on a single three-position rocker switch, for example, a regular two-position switch won’t do the job. You’ll need at least one three-position switch (for off, anchor and running) on the panel.

Making Connections to a Boat Switch Panel

You’ll need to attach either ring or spade connectors to the ends of the accessory wires. Either is fine, but never try to fake it by attaching a bare wire end to a terminal.

When attaching a connector to the wire it should always—always—be crimped. Soldering and crimping together is best, but soldering alone is never recommended on a boat. Boats are subject to too many vibrations when running through the waves, and over time connections made with solder alone will weaken and break. Ideally, the connections should then be protected with waterproof heat-shrink tubing. You can purchase heat-shrink tubes separately, but you can also purchase connectors with the tubing already installed.

Getting Power to the Panel

Begin by getting juice to the panel itself. Again, follow the manufacturer’s and/or ABYC recommendations for wire gauge. And be sure to use tinned-copper wires, which are the most corrosion-resistant.

Run the main power line (positive, red) to a battery switch or isolator, not to the battery itself. Otherwise, you’ll likely suffer from a constant draw that could leave you with a dead battery from one week to the next. Note: automatic bilge pumps are an exception to this rule, and should have a separate power line giving them a constant feed regardless of battery switch position, as well as the lead running to the panel for manual activation.

At this point, we’re ready to attach the negative line (black). However, just where and how you will do so can vary depending on the panel and the boat’s existing wiring. Some panels have a small integrated bus bar, while in other cases there will be a separate negative bus bar that provides a common ground. Either way, the negative line connects directly to the negative terminal of the battery.

With the power supply complete, you can begin wiring in each individual system or accessory to each individual switch. As you do so, be sure the wires are physically supported with cushioned clamps or at the very least tie-wraps, so they don’t swing and sway. Remember that any physical motion in the lines will be amplified over and over again every time the boat is subject to vibrations, and eventually, that motion will lead to failed connections.

When wiring the boat’s switch panel be sure to keep the wiring as neat as possible, eliminating excess wire as much as possible. Everything on a boat eventually needs to be serviced, including wires and connections, and the bigger the mess is the tougher it will be to identify and isolate specific wires and connections down the line.

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Underwater boat lights have become quite popular for one simple reason: they look really cool. Plus, anglers love them for their fish-attracting abilities. But, what if you’re adding underwater lights to a boat that wasn’t built with them? In that case, you’ll have an interesting wiring job ahead of you.

Underwater Boat Light Wiring

There are many different types of underwater boat lights, so referring to the manufacturer’s installation manual is a must. That said, the basics of wiring underwater lights begins with running positive and negative leads to the light. The black lead can go directly to negative, but that red power line takes a bit more work. It should have an inline fuse, then go to a breaker if appropriate, then go to a switch with power.

If opting for multicolor lights with a controller unit and/or receiver and remote, the wiring is more complex. You’ll want to run the positive lead to the power and controller, as well as a control cable. Depending on the current rating requirements of the hardware, you may also have to install a relay in the power line to reduce issues related to voltage variations. When installing many multiple lights into a single system, you may instead need to wire each light individually to a junction box or possibly multiple junctions, which will need to be connected to each other via a control cable, and then get wired to power.

The bottom line? The more complex the lights are and the more multiple lights that are in it, the more wiring is required. A junction box for digital multiplex (DMX) systems, for example, may require five connections through a cable running from each light to the box, plus power, plus control cable(s) linking the boxes. Once complete, however, a system like this provides spectacular abilities like selecting RGBW colors and brightness, different modes for cycling through colors with fading and mixing, and controlling multiple zones.

Underwater Boat Light Wiring Tips

In all cases, no matter the lighting system set up, there are a few commonalities to keep in mind. Most have to do with the fact that underwater boat lights are often wired into areas that range from moist to wet. Accordingly, when joining wires waterproof butt splices with marine-grade adhesive-lined heat-shrink protection should be used. If you need to add wiring not included with the light(s) only tinned-copper marine-grade wires should be used. And inline fuse holders should be IP-rated for waterproof connections.

Additionally, these systems are sensitive to voltage variations. As a result, it’s critical to check the manufacturer’s recommendations regarding power-cable sizing. Also, be sure to secure the wires in a way that the connections and areas where the cables enter and exit the light(s) and/or controllers or junction boxes aren’t stressed nor left unsupported. If left unsupported, they may suffer from repetitive movement or chafing when the boat’s underway.

No Drill Underwater Boat Light Options

Obviously wiring underwater boat lights is only part of the installation process, and if it feels like the whole endeavor might be a bit much, there are options: Installing surface-mount lights is simpler than cutting large holes and installing through-hulls, though they aren’t truly “no drill” since they are mounted with screws. These are most commonly added to the transom of a boat, or to elevated portions of the hull bottom where they won’t cause drag and turbulence when on plane.

For a true no-drill underwater boat light, the options are limited, but there are a couple. The first is to get a drain-plug light. These screw into standard garboard drains and have a single cable coming out the back with power leads, and in the case of RGB models, a controller cable. Just remember that with RGB, you’ll have to install a controller inside the boat. There are also options on the market with a light mounted to the garboard drain itself in a single unit; to mount them you simply remove the existing garboard drain, and replace it with the new lighted one.

A second option to explore is adding trim tab lights. You’ll still need to run a power lead into the boat, but depending on how the boat’s transom is set up, you may be able to do so without drilling.You will need to drill holes for the mounting screws in the tabs, but you won’t have to pierce the boat’s hull.

As you can see, there are an array of underwater boat lights options, some more involved than others? Maybe so. But whichever route you choose, there’s no questioning one fact: underwater boat lights do look incredibly cool.

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Whether it’s a new installation or time for some maintenance, knowing how to bleed a boat’s hydraulic steering system is a must.

Learning how to bleed a vessel’s hydraulic steering system is often born out of necessity. Case in point: A few years ago, I pulled my boat straight out of the slip, made a 90-degree turn by opposing the twin engines, then idled towards a dog-leg in the marina that would lead me to open water. When I reached the dog-leg, I spun the wheel to starboard and, well, nothing happened. A quick glance over the shoulder confirmed that both engines were still nearly centered. With just 30 feet between my boat and a line of pilings and bows, I threw both engines into reverse and came to a full stop—just short of my boat’s bowrail meeting the Danforth anchor perched atop a bow pulpit. I maneuvered back to the slip using the engines, only, then set about bleeding the steering system.

How to Bleed a Single Cylinder Hydraulic Steering System

This process isn’t difficult, but it does require two people because you need one at the helm and another at the steering cylinder. First, get some oil-absorbent pads ready in case any hydraulic fluid makes a mess (which is usually the case). Open the reservoir at the helm and top it off. Then connect the filler tube and oil bottle, and invert the oil bottle so the filler tube fills with hydraulic steering fluid. Poke a hole in the bottom of the inverted bottle so the fluid can freely run out of the bottle and into the system. The person at the helm needs to keep an eye on the filler tube and replace the bottle if it runs empty, to prevent introducing more air into the system.

Next, turn the wheel all the way to starboard. Then the person positioned at the cylinder should open the starboard-side bleeder valve and prepare a container to catch fluid that comes out. (It’s not a bad idea to attach a short length of hose to the bleeder valve so you can direct any fluid that comes out into a container, to minimize the mess). He or she needs to hold the cylinder in place while the person at the helm turns the wheel to port, until air bubbles cease coming out of the bleeder valve. When no more air is coming through, the valve can be closed. Now repeat the process with the portside bleeder valve.

Read More: Yacht Maintenance

How to Bleed Twin Cylinder Hydraulic Steering Systems

Simply follow this same procedure on each cylinder, one after the other. Complete each cylinder individually one at a time, rather than doing both starboard sides then both port sides.

How to Bleed Multiple Station Hydraulic Steering Systems

If your boat has two stations, you’ll need to do each one individually. The good news is that there are no additional steps in this case, either. Simply follow this exact same process at wheel number one, then do it again from wheel number two.

So, how do you know the system is fully purged? You should be able to turn the wheel smoothly from lock to lock sans bumps or hesitations. A sea trial is the best way to get a feel for how smoothly the steering system is working, but at the dock you can usually feel if there are any major air bubbles remaining.

Before you start bleeding the system, however, it’s mission critical to remember that air doesn’t just mysteriously appear in a boat’s properly functioning hydraulic steering system. If air got in there, it most likely found its way in via some sort of leak at a connection point. As a first step, it’s a good idea to check every connection point and seal, look for the telltale sign of hydraulic fluid where it doesn’t belong, and fix the leak. Fail to do so, and chances are that in a day, a week or a month, your steering will be problematic once again.

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Sure, it’s natural to be a bit depressed when the boating season comes to an end, but keep your chin up and a smile on your face because in a few short months you’ll be ripping away that shrink wrap and prepping for spring again. When that time comes, you’ll want the boat to operate just as smoothly as it did when you put it to bed in the fall, and properly winterizing the engine(s) and generator will ensure that it does.

Whether you’re working on the main propulsion system or a generator (diesel or gasoline), in all cases the boat-winterizing process can be broken down into five steps:

• Stabilize the Fuel System
• Change the Fluids
• Drain and/or Winterize the Cooling System
• Visually Inspect the Systems
• Seal and/or Protect any Openings to the Outside

Stabilizing the Fuel System

You’ll want to lay up your boat with full fuel tanks to prevent condensation from forming, however, all fuel has a shelf-life. Over time, varnish and gum can build up in diesel fuel, and gasoline loses octane. If the gas has ethanol in it, the dreaded phase separation can set in too. Adding in a quality fuel stabilizer is key if you want a successful startup come spring. And, after adding it to the tanks be sure to run the engine(s) or generator long enough to allow the treated fuel to work its way all the way through the systems.

Change the Fluids

Now’s the time to change the engine’s oils (including lower unit or transmission oil) and, in the case of a closed-cooling system, the coolant as well. All of these fluids deteriorate over time, and with use. Old oil builds up acids and contaminants, and the corrosion-fighting additives in coolants and antifreeze wear thin with age. You’ll want to change all these fluids now, not in the spring, to prevent those contaminants from doing any harm over the winter.

Drain or Winterize the Cooling System

Any engine’s cooling system needs to be completely drained of all water and/or have antifreeze added to prevent freeze damage. Fail to take this step, and the results can be catastrophic. Generally speaking, this will include bringing the engine up to operating temperature and then pulling drain plugs and/or replacing water with antifreeze (excepting outboard engines, which drain fully when tilted all the way down). That said, every manufacturer has its own recommendations for how to perform the task. In some cases, failing to have an authorized dealer perform the winterization may even void the warranty. So, we aren’t going to get into specifics here — you’ll need to refer to the owner’s manual for your particular engine or generator to ascertain exactly what needs to be done.

Visually Inspect the Systems

Prior to putting the boat to bed for winter, take the time to inspect hoses, belts, electrical connections and all the other visible exterior parts on the engines and generators. In fact, now’s the time to inspect all the hoses, wires and other items in the engine room that are subject to aging, whether they’re attached to the engines and generators or not. If there’s a problem like a cracking, aged hose, spot it now and you’ll have plenty of time to have it fixed before the spring rolls around. But if you wait until the weather begins warming back up to perform these basic inspections, the boatyards and mechanics will be busy and it could lead to significant launch delays.

Seal and/or Protect any Openings to the Outside

Finally, you’ll want to seal exterior openings like exhaust ports and water intakes (most people simply tape plastic over them and/or tape down flapper valves, if present). This will help keep out moisture, but just as important, it will help keep out critters. Nothing is worse than getting ready for a spring shakedown cruise only to discover a nest of wasps or a family of mice has decided to take up residence inside your boat.

Winterize your engines and generator properly and come spring you should be back out on the water in no time. That alone should be enough to keep a smile on your face all winter long.

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WASHINGTON, D.C. (March 20, 2018). The U.S. Coast Guard’s National On-Water Standards (NOWS) Program grant management team and the American Boat and Yacht Council (ABYC) are pleased to announce new national standards for recreational boating safety that educators can use to ensure the quality of their courses. These National On-Water Standards give boating educators national quality standards for providing skills instruction in recreational powerboat, sailboat and human-propelled craft, such as stand-up paddleboards, kayaks, canoes and row boats.

The NOWS describe what recreational boating skills to instruct and how best to instruct them. They are designed to help boaters have the best experience possible when learning to operate a recreational boat; and also, to help ensure students across the country learn a common fundamental set of skills associated with safely operating a recreational boat regardless of where they take the course.

“Most of us know someone who had a difficult first-time experience on the water and never went back to boating. The standards, now available to boating safety educators, will help give boaters the skills and experience they need to be more comfortable and confident about their readiness to safely operate a recreational boat and enjoy themselves on the water,” said Jim Muldoon, NOWS Program Oversight Committee Member

The public can have confidence in the new national quality standards. They are the result of one of the largest studies ever conducted on safe boating skills. This seven-year project involved over 900 expert recreational boating instructors working with hundreds of beginner-level boaters. The experts developed and nationally field-tested the four quality standards a total of more than 600 times to determine the priority of the skills to teach and the best approach for teaching them.

People interested in learning to safely operate a recreational boat, or just brush up on their skills, are encouraged to choose course providers displaying the NOWS logo, which shows that a provider is following the National On-Water Standards for what skills to teach and the approach used to teach them.

For more information please visit Boating Safety Magazine for a list of education providers following the national standards for boating skills education. Be sure to only choose a boating education course that is following the National On-Water Standards.

National boating education associations have also begun the process of adopting the standards. US Sailing, American Sailing Association, US Powerboating, and the American Canoe Association (ACA) for example, are reviewing their beginner-level programs to ensure they follow the new standards. Subsequently, more and more of their member organizations and schools are building the standards into their local courses and use of the standards is becoming the new norm for course providers everywhere.

ABOUT THE NATIONAL ON-WATER STANDARDS (NOWS) PROGRAM

The National On-Water Standards (NOWS) Program is a collaboration initiative led by a diverse group of 27 volunteer Subject Matter Experts from many different recreational boating organizations across the recreational boating community. Funded in part from US Coast Guard Grants awarded to US Sailing, and facilitated by a professional facilitator, the purpose of the NOWS Program is to help raise the overall quality, consistency and availability of recreational boating entry-level skills instruction throughout the United States. It does this by developing national standards, tools and other resources education providers can use to design and deliver on-water instruction that trains people to operate recreational powerboats, sailboats or human-propelled craft. The ultimate goal is to increase the level of safety and enjoyment recreational boaters experience on our nation’s waterways… saving lives in the process.

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Removing and replacing an old windlass is one of the most satisfying DIY projects a boater can undertake, but one expert says that the devil is in the details on any new installation. “It may not be rocket science,” says Jim Thomas, windlass specialist at Imtra, which distributes both the Muir and Lofrans brands. “But there are questions that need to be answered even before a do-it-yourselfer starts cutting holes or removing the old windlass.”

Thomas says that boaters need to pay attention not only to whether the windlass is vertical or horizontal, but also the physical size of the new windlass, its power draw, the depth of the anchor locker, and what rode materials will be used in the new system. Thomas has been answering questions about windlass installations for more than two decades and invites anyone interested in a refit to contact him (jim@imtra.com) for advice before getting started. “Many of our windlass sales go to boatyards for installation, but some boat owners will tackle the project themselves.”

Thomas mentioned that even though Imtra sells windlasses primarily through trade channels, the company will offer boat owners “the best advice it can” to make the installation go as smoothly as possible. Thomas even provides paper templates to owners at boat shows allowing them to compare the potential new windlass to the existing footprint of the original. This provides a clear perspective on the challenges of using existing deck cutouts. Knowing what will need to be filled, cut or modified takes the mystery out of the upgrade.

He sometimes asks boat owners for photos of the foredeck and anchor locker. “We do each project one windlass at a time,” Thomas says. “It’s important for owners to understand the different factors that make for a successful installation,” he says.

The different factors include vessel length and displacement, weight of the anchor, weight and length of the chain, plus the anchoring environment. Windlass types include horizontal, vertical, manual, electric or hydraulic. Some manage an all chain rode, others select a combination rope/chain rode. Where a combination rope/chain rode provides less total weight in the bow, it requires a scope of 7:1 when deploying the anchor. An all chain rode will increase bow weight, however, the scope can often be reduced to as little as 3:1. This can be a huge advantage in a tight anchorage, and it makes for a sound night’s sleep knowing that an all chain rode is deployed.

A new windlass involves both mechanical and electrical steps that need to be taken into consideration, says Thomas. “Owners like to talk about how big their boats are, but we’re more interested in what the windlass will actually be lifting,” he says. “Is it 350 pounds of chain for a blue-water sailing vessel or 100 pounds of rope and chain for a weekend boater rarely using the anchor? Those questions are important since even the same windlass types have different motor options.”

Getting the right roller for the windlass is vital too. “Pairing the anchor and roller correctly is an important starting point since the rollers are designed for specific anchor types – claw, fluke, wing or grapnel,” says Thomas. “Some anchors are self-launching and others are not. If you don’t have a roller, it’s important to find the right one.”

“A lot of refits on boats with no previous windlasses involve finding the best position,” says Thomas. “Are we going to locate the windlass on deck or on a shelf platform under a hatch? Some boats have been designed with undersized anchor lockers to maximize interior space, so we need to find out what type of depth we have in the locker.” Thomas says that ideally, 15 to 18 inches or more clearance from the top of the stowed rode to the underside of the deck is a good starting point, adding that windlasses also like a straight drop because redirecting the rode can create drag. Shallow anchor lockers create challenges as they don’t provide the necessary “drop” to offer hands free flaking as the rode is being recovered.

Beyond the mechanical considerations, electrical draw is also critical to any windlass system. “We need to find out the distance between the battery source and windlass to ensure that the wiring is correctly sized” says Thomas. “If we’re adding a larger windlass, we also need to make sure the circuit breaker is appropriately sized to avoid nuisance tripping. The electrical part of the refit is just as important as cutting holes or any other mechanical steps.”

Many boaters prefer to use a hand held remote or a cockpit switch, however, Imtra encourages that footswitches also be installed. “We respect the thought process that goes into this, but what if water intrudes into the hand remote or the helm switch malfunctions,” says Thomas. “If they have a pair of footswitches, we see it as a safeguard against potential system failure. It’s a matter of redundancy.” Imtra’s goal is to make the windlass system as safe as possible since it is a critical part of a boat’s operation. Finally, boat owners will need to a choose specific finishes that range from chromed bronze, stainless steel, anodized aluminum or FRP housing. “Those options are often dictated by the brand,” says Thomas. “But many owners want the windlasses to enhance the look of the boat. Some even paint their FRP windlass housing to match the colors of their gelcoat.”

For more information about Imtra, its Muir and Lofrans windlasses, or its full offering of anchoring accessories, please visit www.imtra.com or call 508-995-7000.

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Unfortunately, we are not all rich, and we can’t all build Cup defenders. But that is no reason for building a tub or staying ashore. There is always a way to beat the game, and the way to heath the boat game is to build a sharpie. You can do it for under forty dollars.

A sharpie represents the most boat for the money. It is graceful, fast, and a joy to sail. It is also eminently seaworthy and stiff. Minnow, fifteen feet over all, makes just over five knots under one reef and a strong wind. I have driven her with all sail in the same wind but I was too busy to do any timing – a considerably larger boat could not catch us.

A sharpie is easy to build. In general, the process is to bend two side boards around moulds, fasten them to stem and stern, screw in a chine batten, plank her crosswise, saw out the centerboard slot, and proceed with the finish (Detail J). If the pieces are carefully made, the process is really very simple. There is nothing that involves experience in boat building or special skill with tools. There are no pieces that go into place with difficulty or won’t stay put. I have built two of them single-handed with success.

Many times I have sailed among the big ships laid up in Oakland Estuary in my 18-footer, lying along the deck with one bare toe hooked carelessly over the tiller. With a gale it required at least two fingers – never more. She would come about like a top anywhere, any time. And one day we worked her up the Alameda Canal against a tide and sailed in San Leandro Bay when it blew in windows in “Frisco.” Add to this regular trips on Frisco Bay (it fairly blows your hair off there in summer) and a season on Monterey Bay, off Santa Cruz, and you have a fair idea of what an 18-footer will do.

I have built three sharpies, besides five smaller craft for fishing or hunting. At the age of nineteen I built the first one along the lines of a sketch my father had of a New Haven sharpie, eighteen feet long, dating from about 1880. The type was taken to the Carolinas from Connecticut by Mr. George C. Ives, and his son, Mr. John B. Ives, of Statesville, N.C., writes the following:

“Father had his sharpie built in 1875 at Fair Haven, Conn., by a famous builder. She was 36 feet long, having a fore and aft mutton leg sail with boom six to eight feet on the mast from the foot of the sail. This made the sail set like a board. This boat was tried out with the fastest boat then in the fleet and beat her. A club of gentlemen wanted to keep her at home and offered a bonus over cost, which father declined as he wanted the boat to pit against what North Carolina boatmen claimed for their clinker built boats which they considered superior.

“He brought two sharpies to North Carolina, and it was not many years till there was a big fleet of them in our waters. They built to 50 and 60 feet, the larger ones schooner rigged and decked, and this style is largely used now in the oyster dredging industry. The fishermen modified the style into deadrise skiffs, gaff sail and jib, and they carried sail like the wind and would almost go into the eye of it. The larger boats superseded the round bottom schooners in some industries, and would beat them in all weather at sea, but motor craft finally took their place.”

The design of a sharpie is a very particular affair. One was published around 1910 which brought down the scorn of my father. “Pumpkin seed,” he called it, for it was fat and flat, an it had a skeg, which would kill any real sharpie. In my first boat the side boards were sawed curved, starting from the bow. She rocked fore and aft too much and pounded in a chop. In the second one I started the curve farther aft, and it worked better, but they both dragged waves behind when going fast. When it came to Minnow I analyzed the design carefully, and I found that the best displacement curve came when the side boards were perfectly straight on both bottom and top, tapering, of course, from bow to stern. So I built her that way. She does not pound, drives to windward regardless of waves, and leaves the water nearly flat. Besides this, it makes building much simpler. So don’t let any wise friend persuade you to cut a curve on the bottom edge – you will get a perfect curve from the bending on the sides on the flare.

It is the experience of the author that textbooks tell you everything but how to get the monkey out of the box. It is the intent of this article to be brief, but comprehensive, covering all small points, even to nail sizes.

All the following directions are important. If you follow each step in its proper order, you will be surprised how quickly the boat will go together. But do not omit any steps or take any short cuts. Remember, a boat has a habit of leaking, even under the best of circumstances.

TOOLS

• cross-cut, rip, keyhole and hack saws
• drawknife
• spoke shave
• light plane
• hammer
• brace and bits 1/4″ to 3/4″
• screw driver bit and countersink
• twist drills 1/8″, 5/32″, 3/16″
• plain screw driver
• square, metal shears
• three clamps with 2″ openings

LUMBER
No list of pieces is given because one usually gets what is available. A few pieces are called for on the details, and if you don’t get enough lumber the first time, order again. Avoid spruce because it rots, and use regular 7/8″ boards, not thinner, to finish 13/16″. Never use tongue and groove boards below the water line. Planking should be 6″ wide.

HARDWARE
Hardware should be galvanized. Use 6 penny or 7 penny nails generally, wire rather than cut, with a few 8 penny. Two gross screws 1.5″ No. 10. Get some scraps of heavy galvanized sheet iron from your plumber.

CAULKING
Use regular stranded cotton caulking, or get balls of candle wicking from a hardware store. Cotton batting torn into strips will do in a pinch.

SIZE OF BOAT
A 15-foot boat will hold two men and a boy. It sails best with three boys or two men. An 18-foot boat holds four men but sails best with three.

COSTS
The materials for Minnow cost $45, with no attempt at economy, in 1929. A deck might add five dollars more. The 14-footer cost $20, in 1910. The 18-footer cost $35, in 1907. If you have $30, start work – you will raise the rest as you go along. Be careful of the dimes and quarters if cost is a problem. I have heard that in the Carolinas they used to build them for a dollar a foot plus materials. That, of course, could not be done now.

DIRECTIONS FOR WORK
In order of procedure.

MAIN ASSEMBLY
1. Have your saws sharpened by an expert, and sharpen your other tools.

2. Study the plans carefully. Every word and line is on there for business. On the plans certain pieces are identified where they occur, by a number in a circle.

3. Get pieces out at mill, and order lumber (Detail A). You can chop the stem out of an oak piece but don’t do it unless the mill man wants to rob you. They should be able to saw it out.Get a full width side board if you can afford it; mine was redwood. Otherwise, two 12” boards joined carefully as shown (Detail E). Making tight may be a nuisance, but the joint will only be under water when sailing, and slop comes aboard then anyway.

4. Finish side boards complete but do not cut at stern (Details D & E). Saw out as shown, mark for ribs, bore 5/32” for each screw, and countersink. Be sure to make sides opposite hand. Screw ribs in place by the gauge so chine will fit. Use screw driver bit and brace.

5. Make transom, leaving a wide board at the bottom. Stem is presumably made at the mill. (See detail B.)

6. Make moulds of rough lumber (detail C).

7. Form the boat upside down (detail J). Nail boat side boards securely to the stern. Nail to mould No. 2 with two 10 penny nails each side not driven home. Take rope hitch on after ends of boards and cinch in. Nail in form No. 1. Cinch up by twisting rope and draw tight over transom. The battens on the inside of side boards to set transom will help a lot. Screw transom in place, screws into corner piece rather than in end grain of boards of transom. Have transom extended beyond bottom edge of side boards for bevel planking.

The sides will not bend evenly. Pull the boat true with a diagonal wire or rope. Use a string down center for truing.

8. Spring chine battens into place with clamps, and screw, beginning at one end and working towards other. Screws go from outside of side boards through, as with ribs. Chine will project beyond edge of board 2/3″ so both will bevel for plank. (Details F, J, and Q.)

9. Bevel edges of side boards and chine exactly to take plank. Work on both sides at once and use strip across for guide. Work down with drawknife and plane carefully. Boat is apt to leak here. Bevel the transom. Cut stem so last plank will lap onto it and finish at line of rabbet. (Details M and N.)

10. Begin at stern and lay three planks. (Details F and J.) Be sure to lay a thin stir of caulking on edges of side boards under planks. Nail plank to sides and screw to chine as shown. Cut plank long and leave trimming till later to be done all at once. Do not lay too close – you want a crack to caulk into.

11. Start keelson at middle of second plank, and let it go loose at bow at first or nail to end of stem lightly. Fit it at bow when half the planks are on (detail J).

12. Complete planking. Watch caulking carefully, and lay it between plank and keelson on each side of centerboard slot (detail F). Saw plank as close to sides as you can without marking sides, and plane true.

13. Mark centerboard slot and saw accurately with cross cut saw through from the bottom. Should be 1.75” wide to take post.

14. Turn boat right side up. Nail in spreaders to sides of ribs for open boat and 2×4 deck beams crowned for decked boat. Also seats. This holds the boat spread when the moulds are taken out, which is done now. (Details M & N.)

15. Centerboard box (detail G). Fit boards of box to keelson. They should be 1 1/8” thick, if possible but 7/8 can be used with care. It is almost impossible to drill for screw holes through from the bottom and run true into the boards of the box. It is better to drill both ways from the center, but the places must be accurately marked for the holes to meet. So drive some nails in the edges of the boards where the screws are to go, cut off the heads, and press down against the keelson. This will mark the holes, and you can bore the keelson from the inside through the plank, and into the edges of the boards. Use drill through bottom slightly smaller than shank of 4” brass screws, and a smaller hole in edges of boards to hold thread of screw.

16. Fit posts either end of slot, set in white lead, and nail into keelson with one eight penny. Clamp box to posts or nail lightly. Turn boat over and drive screws with brace and screw-driver bit. Be sure you have a thin strip of caulking between keelson and edges of box. Turn boat back, bolt box at bow with 1/4” bolts as there is no room to drive a screw (have holes already), and screw after ends to post, with 1.5” number 10 screws.

This completes the work on the rough hull. In the next issue of Yachting, directions and plans for completing the sharpie will be given in a second and final article (continued on the next page).

How to Build a Sharpie Part II
The Most Boat for the Least Cost
By EDWIN S. PARKER
From the January 1931 issue of Yachting.

In the December 1930 issue of Yachting, the plans and directions for building a 15-foot Sharpie were given that carried the work as far as planking the bottom. In the present article the directions for work are continued from that point to completion. Reference is made here to some of the sketches in the first article and it will be necessary to have them at hand for reference in reading this installment.

STEPPING THE MAST (Details I & Q)
For open boat, build small decking in two layers, top running lengthwise, and lower running across to prevent splitting. Saw mast hole with keyhole saw. Nail this decking securely in place with eight-penny nails. But the strain on the mast is so great that it will spread sides. So later, when the bumpers are on, bend a 3-in wide strip of galvanised sheet metal, as heavy as you can handle, across and around the bumpers, screwing it with two screws each side — 2-in screws preferably—holes drilled in metal and wood. Put some extra screws through sides into bumpers just abaft this. The step is as detailed.

For the decked boat, put 2 by 10 boards across and fur up for crown of deck (Details N & P).

17. DECKING
Use 2 by 4 spreaders as already mentioned, crowned as much as you want. The crown is for appearance only. Nail the coaming to this, with
the 1 by 6 planking left over, and set in the other deck beams made of 7/8-inch stock, crowned likewise. The coaming supports the adjacent deck. Do not set the edge too high or it will cut one’s knees- two inches will stop
all the water necessary.

Use narrow matched boards for the deck -old flooring would be good. Another way is to have 7/8-inch boards ripped to 1.5-inch strips and bent to the curve of the boat, laying edge pieces first and working inwards, nailing together edgewise and into deck beams as well.

Paint deck a sloppy coat, lay canvas and tack to outside of side boards so that the bumper will conceal the edge of canvas. Paint canvas a sloppy coat at once. Use 8-ounce canvas if you can afford it, or anything lighter, down to unbleached sheeting.

18. BUMPERS (Details M, N & P)
In the open boat this strip strengthens the edge materially. In any case, it turns a lot of water on a rough day and takes the knocks when landing. Use the hard pine battens No. 2. Taper off the forward ends to about 3/4 of an inch on the inside. In the open boat, clamp in place and screw 8 inches o.c. from the inside of the side boards, as with ribs. In the decked boat, screw through bumper from outside into side boards, countersinking deeply. In either case, bind at bow and stem with galvanized iron to prevent spreading. Make patterns of heavy paper for cutting metal. Drill for nails in metal, and clinch nails where they go through boards.

19. CENTERBOARD (Detail K)
Make either way, as shown. The board can be pinned through the case for the hinge, as is usually done, but it is very convenient in a small boat to be able to get the board out from the top. The method of hinging shown has proved a good one, and keeps the pivot low. Have a hole in the box aft to take a pin to hold board down when sailing. Make removable cover to go on when board is down (Detail K).

20. RUDDER
This is of the balance type. A very small area forward of the post will balance a large area abaft it. Set post by trial if necessary. The detail shown is very cheap and very strong. Either type of socket is good, as shown (Details H & P). The pipe is better for the decked boat, while the built-up one will serve for the open boat, and is less expensive by perhaps a dollar. But have all the seams accessible in case the soft cloth between the pieces of wood does not make tight. This cloth can be slopped with paint when laying. To cut the hole for the post, use a gouge if you have no extension bit, and, in any case, cut through each piece as you lay it and set post in place when screwing down each piece to get hole true.

For the rudder post (Detail H) get a couple of feet or so of galvanized 1-inch genuine wrought iron pipe from the plumber’s scrap pile, hacksaw it down the middle, working from sides alternately to keep cut true. Cut down perhaps a foot. This is easy. Do not try to flatten it out cold, as it will split. Have the blacksmith heat and spread and drill for the 1/4-inch bolts. This should cost about 25 cents. Now set the rudder and bolts in place and, with this assembled, place the socket in the boat and mark the position of the bolt which holds the shaft from dropping out, and also place where the tee shall come for the tiller. Take to the plumber, who will cut the pipe, put a long thread on it, screw on a tee which has a larger opening horizontally than vertically – they come standard if you can find them – and with this tee lined up with the rudder so that the tiller will be true, drill a 1/8-inch hole clear through tee and shaft. Through this run a wire to prevent tee from rotating on shaft.

21. SPARS (Detail L)
Choose a clear, straight 4 by 6 to cut mast from, preferably western fir. Have mill cut to 3 by 3 and 2 by 2 (Detail A). Mark mast as in diagram… do not taper straight. Tack in brads at taper points, and spring the batten to get true curve. Saw to tapered square, working from both sides alternately to keep the lines, sawing perhaps 6 inches at a time on each side. Have the saw sharp. Where saw breaks out at edge, finish with plane – do no try to hew out, as the grain will tear in and leave a hollow in the mast. But work into a perfect squared stick. Make the octagon gauge, as shown. By twisting this as you go towards the small end you get a true octagon on the mast. cut to this line with drawknife and finish with plane. This will give a true octagon. If this is well done, the work of rounding off is negligible.

Bore hole 5/8 of an inch fore and aft at the head for halyard and work it out with knife so that rope will pass through easily.

Make boom similarly. Jaws of hard wood. The boom tapers very sightly at after end, and flattens out at forward end to take jaws. Make long in case sail stretches. (See detail L).

22. SAILS (Details R, S & T)
Do not be afraid to make your sails. You cannot equal those of a professional, of course; but what of it? Use 30-inch drilling, lap edges one inch and see down both free edges on a seeing mating, using number 30 thread and a long stitch and tight tension. Pin pieces together about one foot apart to be sure pieces pull alike. Lay the sail out with string on a large surface. Cut the sail to this pattern, selvage on the leach or rear edge, allowing hem at bias edges. Curve the edges you cut (at mast and boom) an inch or two out, especially on the edge next to the mast. Not too much, though, as the sail will bag. Hem bias edges, but leave selvage as is.

Have at hand a piece of 1/4-inch manila rope long enough to go around the edges of sail, with some to spare. Hang it out of doors for a month or more. Sew this to edges of sail with sail twine or knitting cotton, well waxed and double, with a sail needle or any heavy needle, the needle going under one strand of the top each stitch. This is the only tricky part of the process. If the rope is not tight enough, or rather, longer than the edge, the edge will flop curiously. If it is shorter than the edge, the sail will bag. To get even tension, lay sail out and stretch sail and rope together. Catch rope to sail every foot or so, and as you sew the rope on, come out even at each catching. The luff (at the mast) and the foot will be easy, but you may have to do the leach over again, as I did.

Sew on reef points of one-inch tape, 12 inches long, at each seam and two between. Make cover for sail so sun will not rot it.

23. CAULKING
In making a boat tight, plan for a good seam and fill it with caulking. The planks may be too close in some cases. Make a hard wood wedge and drive it all along the seam to open the seam slightly. Take the caulking, preferably stranded cotton, and drive it into the seam with the wedge or a putty knife, or at the ends of the seams, with a screw driver. Fill the seams evenly and fairly tight.

DO NOT drive caulking in seam at edges of bottom, between planking and side boards, that is, against mailings. The caulking will swell and pop off the planks. The caulking laid when planking should be sufficient. If leaks develop, fill with plenty of copper bottom paint.

Making tight is not easy. The bottom seldom gives trouble, but at the rudder socket and stern, and at all unexpected places, leaks show up and cause trouble. Make tight with caulking as far as possible. Then use white lead inside and out in corners, drying the boat before applying. A coat of paint does wonders, too, but all this should be done after the caulking is completed.

24. PAINTING
Paint inside, thinning for first coat.

Paint bottom with brown copper paint direct on the wood, giving two or three coats. Green looks better, but does not stay on as well.

Paint some kind of a design on the sail (Details R & S), using one-third or one-quarter oil and the rest turpentine. Outline design in black about one-half inch wide. Two are shown, but the possibilitics are endless.

25. MODIFYING THE DESIGN
It would be doubtful policy to modify the design of the hull. From Mr. Ives’ letter, it would seem that I have developed the design somewhat along the same lines us the fishermen did, namely, toward a dead rise skiff. The older sharpie had a long overhang aft, but actual analysis of the design does not favor this, and Minnow keeps going right into a sea, as the others did not. Do not put on a skeg, or change the rudder, for it is a joy to sail with the balanced rudder. The centerboard, however, may be moved forward or aft, at will, to suit any sail plan you may prefer.

Personally, I like the two masts on an 18-foot boat, though I never could bring myself to move the boom up the mast and reef along the mast as the old sharpies did. On my 18-footer I had a gaff sail forward, but the gaff was a nuisance. Do not have any stays on the mast – there is a tradition to the effect that the spring of the mast helps the speed.

A sloop rig should be good for the larger boats, but whatever rig is used, be sure the center of the total sail area comes over the center of the area of the centerboard.

If a boat larger than 18 feet is to be built, increase the depth of the side boards as well as merelY lengthening them, as shown, so there will be more freeboard aft.

26. GENERAL POINTS
It is well to have the boat decked – you can tip without taking water over the lee rail. A cover on the centerboard box is worth having. as water shoots up in a chop. For a small boat, though, the open model is very handy for rowing.

When sailing before the wind pull up the centerboard. One trial will show you why.

Do not use ballast and try to carry more sail- you lose thereby.

My father’s plan of 1880 is said to have steered with an oar. This should help in a race but I found it a nuisance.

Ready to get building? Click here for a printer-friendly PDF of all the instructions and diagrams. Then write to Yachting to share your experience!

Yachting would like to thank reader Fred Ganley for remembering this article and calling it to our attention. Happy building, Fred!

The post From the Yachting Archives: How to Build a Sharpie Sailboat appeared first on Yachting.

Windlass

While there’s little doubt that the electric windlass has been a boon to cruisers the world over, it’s not foolproof. In most cases, malfunctions and outright failures can be attributed to installation flaws and incomplete or absent maintenance.

Aside from outright mechanical failure, the most common problems encountered with anchor windlasses are due to their placement. In many cases, what may look right simply doesn’t work. Thus, ensuring a fair lead between the windlass and an anchor roller on the bow is critical to avoid repeated snarls and jams. When you’re installing a new windlass or troubleshooting chronic snarling problems, it may be necessary to dry-fit the windlass to find the best lead or improve on the current one so that the anchor can be easily launched and retrieved without manual assistance from a crewmember on the bow.

Another common installation flaw involves stripper bars that are installed as a separate component. The job of this hardware is to peel chain from the rotating wildcat as the rode is retrieved. If the stripper isn’t properly placed or if it’s not secure, chain links can jam between the stripper and the wildcat.

The loads placed on windlasses are often significant, so the machinery needs to be securely through-bolted to the deck or anchor locker using the largest bolts that fit the mounting holes. There also needs to be a substantial backing plate or plates that are at least as large as the footprint of the windlass base. The backing plate should be an aluminum, stainless-steel, or GPO-3 fiberglass sheet of a thickness that’s dependent upon the size of the windlass.

An equally common installation fault involves wiring, both primary (the large cables that supply the windlass motor) and secondary (the smaller wiring connected to switches). Primary wiring should be sized so there’s preferably no more than a 3 percent voltage drop (although a drop of less than 10 percent is still within American Boat & Yacht Council guidelines) between the battery and windlass. The greater the voltage drop, the less efficient is the motor and the more heat that’s generated within the motor’s windings, with a consequent decrease in its lifespan.

A common and potentially disastrous wiring flaw involves placement of the fuse or circuit breaker, which must be located within 7 inches of the battery-not near the windlass or main electrical panel. Fuses are also required on secondary circuits carrying power to and from the windlass control switches. Remember that in the event of a short circuit, the fuse or circuit breaker protects the wiring rather than the windlass. If the windlass is equipped with the aforementioned fuse rather than an easily accessible circuit breaker, you should then include a disconnect switch, also easily accessible, in the circuit. You’d use this in the event that the windlass suffered a malfunction, say if water damaged a control switch and the windlass wouldn’t stop running.

Finally, use a piece of cutaway line to tie the bitter end of the rode to your sailboat. In the event of an emergency-say you’re dragging onto a lee shore or you’re about to be rundown-you can quickly reach the line and cut it to free your anchor.

Installation Tip:
Windlass installers and new- and used-boat buyers take note: To test a windlass installation for proper alignment, I’d recommend a minimum of 10 successful deployments and retrievals using a minimum of 50 feet of rode. If a jam occurs even once during this test sequence, a close investigation is warranted. Allow a little time between tests to prevent the windlass motor from overheating, although most motors have a thermal cutoff that will disable the motor until it cools.

For more information on windlass options, visit Imtra.com.

The post Treat Your Windlass Right appeared first on Yachting.

How electric shock drowning works

Electric shock drowning is a fatal danger that many boaters never see coming. It happens when kids or adults jump off the boat to go swimming and find themselves in waters being charged by current (often 120-volt) leaking from a nearby boat. Swimmers are either electrocuted or severely incapacitated, leading to drowning.

It happens more often than you might imagine. During a four-month period in 2012, seven fatal cases were confirmed in the United States along with plenty more near-misses.

How can you keep yourself and everyone on your boat safe? Here are three tips:

• Be on the lookout in freshwater lakes and brackish marinas. In salt water, current is likely to go around a swimmer — unless he grabs onto an electrically charged swim ladder or other metal object attached to a boat with a leaking current. In fresh water, a jolt as low as 2 volts AC per foot of water can kill a human being. To be safe, treat brackish water as fresh.

• Test your own boat. You’ll need a basic circuit tester and a clamp meter, which together will cost you about $150. Run all your AC loads with the clamp around the shorepower cord to determine if any current is leaking. Call a trusted electrician to help you with further details depending on your boat’s setup.

• Install an isolation transformer. It will isolate your AC shorepower system from your boat’s AC system, making sure that any stray current on the boat returns to its source instead of entering the water.

To learn more about electric shock drowning and how to stay safe, check out this video:

The post 3 Ways to Save Your Life appeared first on Yachting.

Awlwood MA Exterior Clear System

Awlgrip will feature its new Awlwood MA Exterior Clear System at this month’s Palm Beach International Boat Show. The system, available in satin or gloss, combines the primer and clear coats so the first application provides extended performance and retains its shine.

Here’s how:

• Patented resin technology maintains the same gloss and natural appearance for multiple seasons

• The primer incorporates Flex-Link technology to lock directly onto the wood structure—even tropical hardwoods—making the system superior to traditional varnishes

• High-building, fast-curing formulation allows for multiple applications each day, reducing the time required for any project

• The system is applicable over a wide temperature and humidity range, using a variety of methods

• The system remains highly flexible over its lifetime, allowing natural substrate movement while maintaining toughness and abrasion resistance

Learn more at www.awlgrip.com.

The post 5 Reasons to Grab a Brush appeared first on Yachting.