Hauling an anchor has been enjoyed by no one, anywhere, ever. It’s a back-breaking chore that can only be resolved with one thing: an anchor windlass. But, blessing though they may be, anchor windlasses are known for having numerous issues that can stop them cold. The good news is that it’s usually easy to troubleshoot and resolve the problem in short order. Here’s how to figure out what the windlass issue is, and hopefully, get it running again.

Slip Sliding Away

When the windlass appears to be operating properly, but the rode isn’t moving, the most likely issue is a simple clutch adjustment. Check your owner’s manual for how to adjust the clutch (some windlasses have a knob you can turn by hand and others require a winch handle), tighten it up, and give it another try. If the clutch is sufficiently tight, but the windlass still isn’t taking up line, there’s a possibility that the gears are stripped, and the problem will have to be addressed back at the marina.

No Signs of Life

If you flip the switch and nothing happens at all, it’s likely an electrical issue. Step number one is to check the circuit breaker. If the breaker is popped ,reset the breaker and try again. If not, you need to ascertain why and where there is a lack of power. Use a voltmeter to check both sides of the breaker and switch to make sure they’re working properly, then check the motor itself. If there’s no power, check the cables running to the motor. If it shows power, but voltage drops way off when you hit the switch, you have a battery problem and the motor isn’t getting sufficient juice. If there’s plenty of power, the next suspect is the solenoid switch. A clicking noise is a sign that the contacts are corroded or it’s given up the ghost and needs to be replaced. The solenoid is good, but still no luck? In that case, the problem may be more significant, likely in the motor itself, and you’ll need to get that anchor up manually and call in a pro who can disassemble it and diagnose the motor problem.

Deployment Denied

When you’re trying to let out the rode and the windlass keeps clunking, but nothing else seems to be happening, there’s a good chance you have a tangle below decks. You’ll have to access the rope locker from below and straighten out the rode. If you don’t see an obvious tangle, also look for snags, as the rode can become snarled around a bolt-end or a hatch frame in the anchor locker.

Starts and Fits

Does your windlass work fine for a bit, shut off, then work again a few minutes later? If so, chances are the problem is with the operator, not the windlass. This is a sign of overloading the unit and an automatic shut-down taking place to prevent overheating and further damage. Most of the time this is caused by people using the windlass to pull the boat forward to the anchor. Remember, these units are designed to lift the anchor up, not pull your boat along and wrench the anchor out of the bottom. Next time, use the boat’s engines to pull forward while the windlass takes up slack. When the rode is vertical, cleat the line then shift the boat’s engines in reverse to pull the anchor free. Then and only then, resume operating the windlass to haul up the anchor.

What Goes Up Must Go Down

Except for when it doesn’t. When a windlass operates in one direction only, it’s usually another solenoid issue and this time the switch is stuck. It may start working again if you rap the exterior of the switch, as sometimes that will jiggle it free. This is a temporary fix at best, however, and you should replace the switch before your next cruise.

Naturally, there are other problems that can arise with a windless. Stripped gears, broken teeth and worn brushes are all issues that you might encounter. Troubleshooting and fixing these problems, however, generally require the services of a boatyard and/or replacing the unit. Which, of course, you’ll want to have happen asap—unless you’re the one person who finds hauling the anchor manually fun exercise.

The post Troubleshooting Common Anchor Windlass Issues appeared first on Yachting.

Making sure you wire a boat switch panel correctly is absolutely critical. Whether you’re talking about the livewells, lights or bilge pumps, if that switch panel isn’t proper, sooner or later something won’t work. Worse, improper wiring could even lead to a meltdown and potentially, a fire aboard the boat.

Before digging into the details, there are a few important items you’ll need to know regardless of the specifics of the job. First, always follow the manufacturer’s recommendations when it comes to wire gauge, fuse and/or breaker size, and other specifics. Most boats and marine accessories are built to American Boat and Yacht Council (ABYC) standards, which include wiring and switch-panel specifics. These should always be adhered to. We also need to note that all boats are a bit different, and there are often good reasons to make exceptions to the generalizations we’re making here or do things a bit differently.

Choosing a Switch Panel for a Boat

The panel you’ll need depends on the size of your boat and the number of systems it has. As a rule of thumb, always choose a panel that has several additional switches to the ones you need to wire up. That way, you can add more accessories down the road and will have the switches available for use. Naturally, the switch panel must be rated for marine use and if it will be exposed, waterproof.

You can choose between a number of switch styles, which generally includes rocker switches, toggle switches or push-buttons. Most are illuminated, but not all are, and illumination can be quite helpful so you can see what’s activated and what isn’t at a glance. You can also get a switch panel with breakers or one with fuses. Breaker panels tend to cost a bit more, but they’re far more convenient since they allow you to reset the switch without having to carry fuses and replace them when necessary. However, breakers will have a set number of amps as opposed to being able to change fuses for different sizes. Sometimes you’ll see panels with no breakers or fuses, but in that case, a separate fuse or breaker panel must be added.

Also consider how many multi-position switches you need. If you want your running and anchor lights on a single three-position rocker switch, for example, a regular two-position switch won’t do the job. You’ll need at least one three-position switch (for off, anchor and running) on the panel.

Making Connections to a Boat Switch Panel

You’ll need to attach either ring or spade connectors to the ends of the accessory wires. Either is fine, but never try to fake it by attaching a bare wire end to a terminal.

When attaching a connector to the wire it should always—always—be crimped. Soldering and crimping together is best, but soldering alone is never recommended on a boat. Boats are subject to too many vibrations when running through the waves, and over time connections made with solder alone will weaken and break. Ideally, the connections should then be protected with waterproof heat-shrink tubing. You can purchase heat-shrink tubes separately, but you can also purchase connectors with the tubing already installed.

Getting Power to the Panel

Begin by getting juice to the panel itself. Again, follow the manufacturer’s and/or ABYC recommendations for wire gauge. And be sure to use tinned-copper wires, which are the most corrosion-resistant.

Run the main power line (positive, red) to a battery switch or isolator, not to the battery itself. Otherwise, you’ll likely suffer from a constant draw that could leave you with a dead battery from one week to the next. Note: automatic bilge pumps are an exception to this rule, and should have a separate power line giving them a constant feed regardless of battery switch position, as well as the lead running to the panel for manual activation.

At this point, we’re ready to attach the negative line (black). However, just where and how you will do so can vary depending on the panel and the boat’s existing wiring. Some panels have a small integrated bus bar, while in other cases there will be a separate negative bus bar that provides a common ground. Either way, the negative line connects directly to the negative terminal of the battery.

With the power supply complete, you can begin wiring in each individual system or accessory to each individual switch. As you do so, be sure the wires are physically supported with cushioned clamps or at the very least tie-wraps, so they don’t swing and sway. Remember that any physical motion in the lines will be amplified over and over again every time the boat is subject to vibrations, and eventually, that motion will lead to failed connections.

When wiring the boat’s switch panel be sure to keep the wiring as neat as possible, eliminating excess wire as much as possible. Everything on a boat eventually needs to be serviced, including wires and connections, and the bigger the mess is the tougher it will be to identify and isolate specific wires and connections down the line.

The post How to Wire a Boat Switch Panel appeared first on Yachting.

If you live in a climate where the temperature drops below freezing, winterizing your outboard engine is critical. In fact, a failure to winterize followed by a blast of frosty weather can cause significant damage, leaving you with a fat repair bill come spring. Fortunately, winterizing an outboard isn’t very complex and most do-it-yourselfers can get the job done in an afternoon. In fact, we can break it down into a series of four easy steps:

1. Flush the motor
2. Change the oil
3. Fog the motor
4. Stabilize the fuel

Flushing an Outboard Motor

We certainly hope you’re familiar with this process, because flushing with clean fresh water after each and every trip is one of the best ways to extend your outboard engine’s lifespan. All modern outboards have a flushing port threaded to fit a common garden hose, which allows you to flush the engine without starting it up. Find the port (look in your owner’s manual if it isn’t obvious), spin on the hose, turn on the water, and let it flow for at least five minutes. If you have an old model engine without a flushing port, you can place a set of earmuffs over the water intakes, turn on the water, then start the engine and run it until it’s thoroughly flushed out.

Changing the Oil

In a modern four-stroke outboard, you’ll have two oil changes to perform: the powerhead oil and the lower unit oil. Two-strokes don’t have powerhead oil, but will still need a lower unit oil change. To change the lower unit oil, you need to remove the top and bottom drain screws and catch all the old oil in a pan, for recycling later. Be sure the engine is tilted slightly up to angle the lower unit downwards, so all the oil drains out. After it is fully drained, use a lower-unit oil pump to pump fresh oil into the lower unit. When oil begins seeping out of the top hole, it’s full. Replace the top screw first, then remove the oil-pump fitting and quickly replace the lower screw before oil has a chance to seep out.

Changing the powerhead oil is very similar to changing the oil in an automobile; there will be a dipstick for measuring oil level, a drain for catching the old oil in a pan, an upper port for adding new oil with a funnel, and of course, a filter that needs to be replaced. If the locations for these aren’t obvious when you remove the cowl, refer to your engine’s owner’s manual. It’s also a good idea to check that manual ahead of time so you know what type of oil to use and how much you’ll need to replace.

Why change the oil now, as part of the winterization process? Oils have acid buildups that are created as the engine is run, and when that outboard is going to sit for an extended time it’s best to make sure the oil is fresh. Changing the oil now also offers a chance to be sure that there’s no water contamination (it will look milky), which could lead to freeze-damage when the temperatures drop.

Fogging an Outboard Motor

With older outboards, fogging was a rather painstaking process where you had to spray fluid into the carburetor and cylinders. Good news, folks: most of the outboards out there today have EFI fuel-delivery systems rather than those old carburetors. And in most cases, you can fog the motor by adding fogging fluid to a portable fuel tank, removing the fuel line at the filter and placing it in the portable tank, then running the fuel/fogging oil mix through the engine. Be sure to follow your owner’s manual recommendations and the instructions on the fogging oil to get the right ratio for the fuel and oil mix.

Note that if you use your outboard throughout the winter at least once a month, there’s no need for fogging it. In fact, many boaters skip fogging altogether and simply make sure they run the outboard up to operating temperature at least once every three to four weeks.

Stabilizing the Fuel

With today’s ethanol fuel, it’s very important to add a fuel stabilizer when your boat will sit for extended periods of time. First, fill the tank so there isn’t a lot of open space where condensation might form, then add the stabilizer directly into the fuel tank in the amount as per the manufacturer’s instructions.

What about antifreeze? With an outboard, it’s completely unnecessary just as long as you remember to store the engine in the tilted-down position. Outboards are designed to drain completely when tilted down, so water damage won’t be any issue. That said, it’s a good idea to tilt the engine up and down a couple of times and watch for any water coming out to make sure it’s completely drained. Then you can disconnect the battery and put it on a trickle-charger for the winter, address winterizing the boat itself, securely cover the boat , and then kick back and wait for the return of warmer weather and another boating season.

The post Winterizing Outboard Engines appeared first on Yachting.

Boating in homelike comfort for more than a few hours at a time takes more electricity than most battery systems can provide, but adding a generator to the mix gives boaters a constant feed of power. A generator is a rather involved upgrade, but it can be boiled down to a few basic steps.

Determine Your Vessel’s Power Needs

There’s a big difference between the power requirements of a 40-foot cruiser and a 30-footer. Take air conditioning, for example. Both boats may have it, but one might need a 20,000-Btu system to chill down the salon while the other can get by with 5,000 Btus. So, the bigger boat will not only have more systems to feed, but each one is larger in scale. That means step one is simply figuring out how much power is enough. And remember that bigger isn’t always better. Generators are designed to run under load, and if you regularly run one at less than 25 percent of its output and don’t typically run at closer to 50 to 70 percent of load, it will often lead to soot formation, poor piston-ring seals and clogged injector tips.

What if you need only minimal juice? In that case, could carrying a portable generator aboard make sense? Maybe so, but these usually hold enough fuel to run for just eight or nine hours. If you want electricity for longer than that, you’ll have to carry a gas can and plan to refuel from the deck of a pitching, rolling boat. Obviously, that raises safety concerns. Plus, these generators generally aren’t marinized for use in the saltwater environment. As a general rule of thumb, carry-on generators have limited applications on boats.

Determine Your Boat’s Available Real Estate

The biggest limiting factor in how much power you can bring aboard will be engine-room space. Generators are often shoe-horned in, which makes for tough maintenance, but even tougher installation. You need a solid, level mounting surface, as well as room for cables and hoses. Also consider access to the area, because it won’t do you much good to buy a generator only to discover it doesn’t fit through the hatch.

Mounting a Boat Generator

Generators are weighty, and they require secure mounting. Screws or lag bolts aren’t sufficient—you need stout through-bolts or hefty brackets. Think of it like mounting an engine in a boat, because, well, they are engines. True, the generator won’t be bearing any thrust, but all that weight creates an awful lot of leverage when the boat rocks and rolls. If you’re adding a generator to a boat that originally offered one as optional equipment, check with the manufacturer to see if pre-tapped mounting plates were laminated into the stringers. You may have an ideal mounting point ready and waiting for you.

Plumbing a Boat Generator

Ready to start running hoses? You’ll need a cooling water feed via a through-hull with a seacock, and an exhaust run. Intake lines need to have a sea strainer between the seacock and the generator, and should not depend on a scoop-style through-hull, which can force water into the generator when it’s not in operation. Exhaust lines need an anti-siphon loop installed at the manufacturer’s recommended minimum height above the waterline.

Obviously, you’ll also need to get fuel to the generator. In the interest of minimizing the hazard of mixing up fuels and increasing the workload, most boaters want to choose a generator that burns the same fuel as their vessel’s powerplants and tap into the existing supply. Otherwise, installing a fill and vent lines will be necessary in addition to installing the tank itself. You’ll also need to plumb in a fuel filter between the tank and the generator.

Wiring a Boat Generator

Wiring is a stage that can get quite tricky, and the bottom line is that you must follow the manufacturer’s specifications for both the boat and the generator. That said, there will usually be cables for an externally mounted battery for starting the generator, the AC output, and you may wire in a remote-control panel above decks, as well. Care must be taken to make sure that all wiring is up to manufacturer and ABYC specs, and that it’s supported and protected from stress and chaffing. AC wiring must be done as per the manufacturer’s recommendations. Note that generators must also be grounded and bonded in accordance with USCG regulations.

Insulating a Boat Generator

Generators can be notoriously loud. If your boat’s engine room isn’t thoroughly insulated, choosing a generator contained in an insulated soundshield is a smart move. Adding acoustic insulation to an engine room after the fact is rarely as effective. Air intakes, exhaust type and mounting will also have an impact on the noise and vibration levels.

So, is adding a generator to a boat really all that involved? You bet it is, which is why few DIY boaters ever even consider giving it a shot. It’s also risky to try installing one yourself from both a safety and a reliability/longevity standpoint. So, 99 times out of 100 this is a job best left to the professionals.

The post Adding a Generator to a Boat appeared first on Yachting.

Over time, even the shiniest boat will turn faded and dull as its gelcoat oxidizes. UV exposure is the culprit, and as chalky oxidation fills the gelcoat’s microscopic pores and cracks, that once-lustrous shine will slowly dwindle away. But all is not lost. If, that is, you know how to restore the gelcoat on a boat.

Step 1: Remove the Oxidation

This is a very simple, but very labor-intensive process. You’ll need to get oxidation remover, a power buffer and plenty of bonnets. Whatever you do, don’t eschew the power buffer and try to tackle this task manually. You’d need to firmly rub in circles tens of thousands of times to de-oxidize even a relatively small boat, and unless a severe case of tennis elbow sounds like fun, that buffer is a must-have for this work.

Before you begin buffing, tape off any fittings, the rubrail and anything else that could be damaged by the abrasives in the oxidation remover. Next, squirt a dose of it onto the bonnet, hold it up against the hull side, and pull the trigger. Again, and again, and again, until that hull begins to gleam once more.

Tip: Be careful not to hit the power button on the buffer before it’s placed firmly against the gelcoat. Do so, and its orbital motion will sling the viscous liquid in every direction.

Plan on spending hours of buffing to get rid of the oxidation, noting that the worse the damage is, the more work it will take. Also remember that the buffer won’t reach all of the tight spots, like under the rubrail or lips in the hull side. Once the large areas are completed, you’ll have to attack the parts you couldn’t reach by hand. Even though it may be a tiny fraction of the surface area of the hull, rubbing these free of oxidation can take hours or even days.

Step 2: Wash the Boat and Give It a Close Visual Inspection

Next, you’ll want to wash the boat and give it a close visual inspection. Then, get ready to attack it with the oxidation remover again. You’ll almost certainly see some areas where the oxidation remover obscured your view and some cloudiness remains in the gelcoat.

Step 3: Apply the First Coat of Protective Wax

Is that gelcoat shining like new? Great. But it won’t stay that way for long, because now fresh, unprotected gelcoat is exposed to the sun and the air. It began deteriorating the moment you washed away the last of the oxidation remover. Now, you need to cover it up with a protective coat of wax. Use thick paste wax. It lasts the longest and provides the best UV protection. Time to start rubbing again.

Step 4: Apply the Second Coat of Protective Wax

You knew we were going to tell you to wax the boat a second time, right? One coat simply doesn’t cut it, because there are always areas where the wax coat is too thin or were missed entirely on the first go-round.

Step 5: Apply the Third Coat of Wax, This Time Carnauba

The gelcoat may be protected now, but it’s not shining as brightly as it could be. To get the very best finish, you’ll now want to do a third waxing. But this time, use a liquid carnauba wax. This stuff gives the best shine, and although it won’t last as long as a paste wax, it will give that gelcoat a gleam that can’t be beat.

Read Next: Stripping Bottom Paint from a Boat

Step 6: Maintain the Restored Gelcoat

Maintain the shine. That means keeping the boat clean and reapplying the carnauba wax every few weeks. At least twice a season, give it another base coat with the paste wax, too. As long as you do so, you’ll keep the oxidation at bay. But, if you let a few months go by without waxing, the shine will begin to wither once again.

The post How to Restore Gelcoat on a Boat in Six Steps appeared first on Yachting.

If you’ve been researching how to paint a boat, you’ve probably come to realize that choosing the best paint for each part of the boat can be challenging. But choose you must, and the critical factors to consider include:

· Where you use your boat

· Type of boat and whether hard or soft paint is appropriate

· Compatibility and application

Where You Use Your Boat: Bottom Paint Biocides

Bottom paint’s main job is to prevent marine growth on the boat’s bottom, and to accomplish this task they have biocides in them that prevent organic growth from taking hold. Cuprous oxide is the most common biocide and it’s quite good at its job. Generally speaking, the higher the concentration of copper in a bottom paint, the more effective it is at preventing growth. However, this stuff isn’t great for the environment. As a result, the strongest paints are usually used only when and where necessary, and are even banned altogether in some states. There are other, more environmentally-friendly biocides, including zinc omadine, zinc pyrithione, thiocyanate and Econea. However, these generally aren’t considered as effective as cuprous oxide over the long term.

Stopping barnacles and mussels from growing on your boat’s hull is one thing, but preventing a slimy coat of algae is another. In areas where a green “beard” of growth is common, you’ll need a paint that also includes an anti-slime agent. Often, this will come in the form of a photosynthesis-blocking agent like zinc pyrithione. Irgarol, which was previously favored for the task, is in the process of being phased out as the result of EPA study showing it could cause bleaching in coral, among other issues. You may still see it on the shelf today, but don’t expect it to be around forever.

So, how do you know which of these to choose? The biggest variable to consider is just what sort of growth appears on boats in your neck of the woods, and just how fast it appears. This can differ from region to region, and even harbor to harbor, depending on factors like local water quality, salinity, sunlight exposure levels and local currents. As a result, local knowledge is usually considered critical when it comes to choosing bottom paint. It’s best to ask around at area boatyards and marinas, which have likely tried multiple paints throughout the years, and find out which paints and biocides are the local favorites.

Boat Types and Hard or Soft Bottom Paint

Bottom paints can be broken down into two categories, hard and soft. Hard paints include epoxy or non-sloughing, and once these are painted onto the hull, they more or less remain as-is. Soft paints are ablative, which means they slowly wear away to expose new biocides with time and use. There are also hybrid paints that are semi-hard and semi-ablative.

Which one is best for your boat depends on how fast it cruises and how often you use it. Hard paints hold up much better to high speeds and regular use. If you have a boat that cruises at 40-plus mph and you use it on a weekly basis, a hard paint will almost certainly be the right pick. However, this stuff isn’t easy to remove and you can only apply on so many layers season after season, before you’ll have to resort to stripping the hull bottom and starting fresh.

If your boat isn’t a high-speed model, ablative paint, which wears away with time and use, may be more appropriate. True, it’s not as tough and can be worn or scraped away, but annual buildup is far less significant, the paint is much easier to remove if need be and with regular use of the boat, it’s always exposing new biocides. Note, however, that ablative paint isn’t a great choice for boats that may be trailered since the bunks can rub it right off of the hull. It may also lose effectiveness if the boat sits for long periods of time without use.

Bottom Paint Compatibility and Application

If your boat already has bottom paint on it, your choices may be restricted by compatibility issues. If you try to put a hard paint over an existing coat of soft paint, for example, the new paint will disappear in no time as the ablative wears away from underneath it. This isn’t an insurmountable problem (the old paint can be soda blasted or stripped away), but prior to application a whole different prep regime will be necessary. In some other cases, the paint may not cure properly if the boat is launched too soon or too long after the paint dries. And in yet others, a specific primer will need to be applied within a particular timeframe of the paint in order for it to be effective.

Each particular brand and type of paint is going to have different application requirements, and a careful reading of the label is in order. But do this reading before you choose the paint—not when you’re getting ready to apply it—because you need to make sure you can work within all the parameters and timeframes it specifies.

Make a good choice and you should enjoy foul-free boating all season long.

The post Selecting Right Bottom Paint for Your Boat appeared first on Yachting.

Nobody gets excited at the thought of stripping bottom paint from a boat, but this is one of those dirty jobs that’s a necessity every so often. And, in most cases, stripping bottom paint makes less of a mess (and is less of an environmental hazard) than sanding. It’s also more economical than hiring a professional to get the paint off via soda blasting.

Before we dig into steps, we need to lay out a few bottom-paint-stripping ground rules. First, completely read the manufacturer’s instructions before getting started, and follow them to a tee. Some strippers need to be covered with a plastic barrier to prevent the solvents from gassing out. Others can harden, if they’re left applied to the hull for too long. Many need to be applied within a specific temperature range. And some may even damage the boat’s gelcoat, if used improperly. Each is a bit different, so you need to familiarize yourself with the particular product you’re using before you use it. That said:

Step I: Dress in Tyvek or clothing you don’t care about, including eye protection and rubber or nitrile gloves.

Step II: Cover the ground under the boat with a disposable tarp or plastic drop-cloth. Gobs of the stripper and paint will be falling off the boat and you’ll need to contain it. Also, tape off the paint line to protect the gelcoat immediately adjacent to the paint.

Step III: Apply the stripper as per the manufacturer’s instructions. Usually, this means more or less painting it on with a brush or roller. Some strippers can be sprayed on, but overspray onto nearby surfaces can be problematic. In general, you’ll want to lay it on as thick as possible, but not so thick that gobs fall off of the boat.

Step IV: If the stripper is one of the types that needs to be covered, apply the plastic film or sheets as instructed.

Step V: Sit back and wait. You can’t hurry this stuff up, and it usually takes a matter of hours for the stripper to work to full effect. It’s also critical that you don’t wait beyond the recommended period, or some strippers may harden.

Step VI: With a putty knife or scraper (with sharp edges rounded to prevent gouging the gelcoat), begin scraping off the softened paint. If possible, place a waste bag directly under the area you’re working on as you scrape to catch the falling paint and stripper. Move it as you go and replace the bag as it fills up. Keeping the mess contained along the way will help in reducing the cleanup at the end of the job. Note: Some strippers can be power-washed off in controlled circumstances, however, this generally isn’t recommended for DIY bottom-paint stripping due to environmental concerns.

Step VII: Be prepared to do it all over again. In most cases, the stripper will take off a few layers of paint, but when there are three-plus layers on the hull most products will require a second application.

Step VIII: There will often be some small areas where for whatever reason the stripper didn’t quite do the job, and you may need to sand away some remaining paint. Finally, give the bottom a thorough wash.

With stripping the bottom paint from the boat now complete, you can prep the hull bottom for a fresh coat of paint, and begin the bottom-paint cycle all over again.

The post Stripping Bottom Paint from a Boat appeared first on Yachting.

Whether it’s a new installation or time for some maintenance, knowing how to bleed a boat’s hydraulic steering system is a must.

Learning how to bleed a vessel’s hydraulic steering system is often born out of necessity. Case in point: A few years ago, I pulled my boat straight out of the slip, made a 90-degree turn by opposing the twin engines, then idled towards a dog-leg in the marina that would lead me to open water. When I reached the dog-leg, I spun the wheel to starboard and, well, nothing happened. A quick glance over the shoulder confirmed that both engines were still nearly centered. With just 30 feet between my boat and a line of pilings and bows, I threw both engines into reverse and came to a full stop—just short of my boat’s bowrail meeting the Danforth anchor perched atop a bow pulpit. I maneuvered back to the slip using the engines, only, then set about bleeding the steering system.

How to Bleed a Single Cylinder Hydraulic Steering System

This process isn’t difficult, but it does require two people because you need one at the helm and another at the steering cylinder. First, get some oil-absorbent pads ready in case any hydraulic fluid makes a mess (which is usually the case). Open the reservoir at the helm and top it off. Then connect the filler tube and oil bottle, and invert the oil bottle so the filler tube fills with hydraulic steering fluid. Poke a hole in the bottom of the inverted bottle so the fluid can freely run out of the bottle and into the system. The person at the helm needs to keep an eye on the filler tube and replace the bottle if it runs empty, to prevent introducing more air into the system.

Next, turn the wheel all the way to starboard. Then the person positioned at the cylinder should open the starboard-side bleeder valve and prepare a container to catch fluid that comes out. (It’s not a bad idea to attach a short length of hose to the bleeder valve so you can direct any fluid that comes out into a container, to minimize the mess). He or she needs to hold the cylinder in place while the person at the helm turns the wheel to port, until air bubbles cease coming out of the bleeder valve. When no more air is coming through, the valve can be closed. Now repeat the process with the portside bleeder valve.

Read More: Yacht Maintenance

How to Bleed Twin Cylinder Hydraulic Steering Systems

Simply follow this same procedure on each cylinder, one after the other. Complete each cylinder individually one at a time, rather than doing both starboard sides then both port sides.

How to Bleed Multiple Station Hydraulic Steering Systems

If your boat has two stations, you’ll need to do each one individually. The good news is that there are no additional steps in this case, either. Simply follow this exact same process at wheel number one, then do it again from wheel number two.

So, how do you know the system is fully purged? You should be able to turn the wheel smoothly from lock to lock sans bumps or hesitations. A sea trial is the best way to get a feel for how smoothly the steering system is working, but at the dock you can usually feel if there are any major air bubbles remaining.

Before you start bleeding the system, however, it’s mission critical to remember that air doesn’t just mysteriously appear in a boat’s properly functioning hydraulic steering system. If air got in there, it most likely found its way in via some sort of leak at a connection point. As a first step, it’s a good idea to check every connection point and seal, look for the telltale sign of hydraulic fluid where it doesn’t belong, and fix the leak. Fail to do so, and chances are that in a day, a week or a month, your steering will be problematic once again.

The post Bleeding Hydraulic Steering Systems appeared first on Yachting.

When someone’s shopping for brokerage boats with outboard motors, one thing they’ll hear over and over is that they should check engine compression before making any purchases. But, what is a compression test in the first place? What do the results mean? And, just what does it tell potential boat owners?

A compression check measures how much pressure is built up by the motion of the pistons in each individual cylinder. As a piston goes up and down inside the cylinder, the piston rings create a seal against the cylinder wall. At the top of the piston’s upstroke, fuel and air are compressed before ignition via the spark plug. With age and use, the engine’s internal parts can wear and over time their compression abilities degrade. The compression test is a great way to find out if a cylinder is damaged and is losing compression, without having to open the engine up and look inside.

If you’re worried that learning how to check compression for your outboard will be difficult, it’s actually very simple. That said, it’s best done with two people, so one can turn the key and crank the engine while the other person operates the gauge. Otherwise, if you’re alone you’ll have to go back and forth from the helm to the motor over and over again. When performing a compression test, some pros recommend warming up the engine first, but some others don’t. Same goes for advancing the throttle versus leaving it in the neutral position. In any case, neither step is critical to getting informative results.

The first step is to remove the engine’s cowl and then all of the spark plugs. Next, screw the end of the compression gauge (they’re inexpensive and readily available in most auto parts stores, though you may need to purchase an adaptor to fit different threads) into the first cylinder. Crank the engine for about five seconds so it turns at least five times, then look at the gauge and record the psi reading. After you’ve written the results down, remove the gauge and screw it into the next cylinder. Repeat the process until you’ve recorded the compression readings for all the cylinders.

Note that the engine won’t be able to fire up because the spark plugs have been removed. However, on many outboard models fuel will still be injected into the cylinder. So, a compression test should never be performed near an open flame or while smoking.

Read More: Yacht Maintenance

Okay: now you have a set of numbers written down, but just what do they mean? It would be nice if we could say they should be between “X” and “Y” psi, but different outboard sizes, makes and models will produce different results. The critical thing to look for is variation in the readings. All of the cylinders should show a psi within about 10 percent of each other. A lot of variation in the readings indicates that one or more of the cylinders has a problem, and therefore, running the engine could be a risky proposition.

Deviations in compression can be caused by a number or problems, but all of them are significant. A cylinder could be scored, the rings could be worn, or one of them could be broken (in which case there’s a good chance you also have a scored cylinder), or there could be a carbon buildup causing the rings to stick. If two adjacent cylinders show low compression, there’s a strong possibility the head gasket is bad between those two cylinders. In any of these cases, however, the bottom line is the same: significant repair bills will likely be in the future. And if you ignore the problem and continue using the engine, catastrophic damage could be the end result.

The post How to Check Outboard-Motor Compression appeared first on Yachting.

My damn phone never stops ringing. I’m going undercover,” my pal Ed grumbled. Ed has earned a reputation as one of the marine industry’s best yacht-systems experts. He stopped advertising years ago and now drives a plain, unmarked van.

“If I’m within sight of a marina, they hail me like a taxicab,” Ed groused.

Ed’s experience made me think about a scolding I’d endured from a visionary industry pal in the 1990s. He hadn’t been keen on a column I’d written promoting self-reliance at sea. It had included an image of me toiling in my steaming-hot engine room. He insisted that boats would soon be as reliable as subcompact cars, and that white-glove marine service would be the industry standard.

“Well, the guy had a vision problem,” Ed grunted. “I’d like whatever they’re pumping through the ventilation ducts at corporate headquarters.”

My industry pal’s vision was that if there were a mechanical problem, there’d be no more need to look under the hood. Yachtsmen would simply push a button, and a satellite-sourced voice would promise a free tow and a late-model loaner until your ride was returned, fit as a fiddle and detailed to perfection. During rare boatyard visits, you could relax in the customer lounge, sipping lattes and nibbling on scones.

The marine industry has worked hard to fulfill my pal’s vision and has had some success. Boatbuilders and equipment manufacturers have chased reliability with computer chips, and a new generation of plug-and-play shoppers is touching screens, reading glass cockpits and wiggling joysticks. In many cases, boatyards are far more approachable; they no longer look like Superfund sites. The problem is the boating environment and lifestyle: Electronic devices prefer salt-free chips, and mechanical devices need regular exercise.

Read More from Jay Coyle: Tell Tales

Given the complexity of new boats, some people believe that even if an owner were willing to read a manual, modern marine systems are too much for hands-on types to tangle with; that those who are qualified to sort out today’s high-tech systems no longer wear grease-stained boiler suits and turn wrenches; and that modern marine technicians rely on a computer and carry a tool bag stuffed with data port adapters.

Ed has a different take: “BS. There should be a witness-protection program for the dumb ‘smart systems’ I’ve seen. You don’t need a computer to find a leak or a clogged filter.”

He arms customers with spare parts and tools that can often save a cruise by keeping the air-conditioning and beer cold, the head empty, and the generator and engine running.

If you’re interested in white-glove service, don’t call Ed. It’ll be three months before he can get to you in shorts and a T-shirt, and there’s no loaner.

Years back, my industry pal moved to another industry, and I’ve heard he’s done well. Obviously, his vision has improved.

The post Seeking Reliable Service appeared first on Yachting.