Hauling an anchor has been enjoyed by no one, anywhere, ever. It’s a back-breaking chore that can only be resolved with one thing: an anchor windlass. But, blessing though they may be, anchor windlasses are known for having numerous issues that can stop them cold. The good news is that it’s usually easy to troubleshoot and resolve the problem in short order. Here’s how to figure out what the windlass issue is, and hopefully, get it running again.

Slip Sliding Away

When the windlass appears to be operating properly, but the rode isn’t moving, the most likely issue is a simple clutch adjustment. Check your owner’s manual for how to adjust the clutch (some windlasses have a knob you can turn by hand and others require a winch handle), tighten it up, and give it another try. If the clutch is sufficiently tight, but the windlass still isn’t taking up line, there’s a possibility that the gears are stripped, and the problem will have to be addressed back at the marina.

No Signs of Life

If you flip the switch and nothing happens at all, it’s likely an electrical issue. Step number one is to check the circuit breaker. If the breaker is popped ,reset the breaker and try again. If not, you need to ascertain why and where there is a lack of power. Use a voltmeter to check both sides of the breaker and switch to make sure they’re working properly, then check the motor itself. If there’s no power, check the cables running to the motor. If it shows power, but voltage drops way off when you hit the switch, you have a battery problem and the motor isn’t getting sufficient juice. If there’s plenty of power, the next suspect is the solenoid switch. A clicking noise is a sign that the contacts are corroded or it’s given up the ghost and needs to be replaced. The solenoid is good, but still no luck? In that case, the problem may be more significant, likely in the motor itself, and you’ll need to get that anchor up manually and call in a pro who can disassemble it and diagnose the motor problem.

Deployment Denied

When you’re trying to let out the rode and the windlass keeps clunking, but nothing else seems to be happening, there’s a good chance you have a tangle below decks. You’ll have to access the rope locker from below and straighten out the rode. If you don’t see an obvious tangle, also look for snags, as the rode can become snarled around a bolt-end or a hatch frame in the anchor locker.

Starts and Fits

Does your windlass work fine for a bit, shut off, then work again a few minutes later? If so, chances are the problem is with the operator, not the windlass. This is a sign of overloading the unit and an automatic shut-down taking place to prevent overheating and further damage. Most of the time this is caused by people using the windlass to pull the boat forward to the anchor. Remember, these units are designed to lift the anchor up, not pull your boat along and wrench the anchor out of the bottom. Next time, use the boat’s engines to pull forward while the windlass takes up slack. When the rode is vertical, cleat the line then shift the boat’s engines in reverse to pull the anchor free. Then and only then, resume operating the windlass to haul up the anchor.

What Goes Up Must Go Down

Except for when it doesn’t. When a windlass operates in one direction only, it’s usually another solenoid issue and this time the switch is stuck. It may start working again if you rap the exterior of the switch, as sometimes that will jiggle it free. This is a temporary fix at best, however, and you should replace the switch before your next cruise.

Naturally, there are other problems that can arise with a windless. Stripped gears, broken teeth and worn brushes are all issues that you might encounter. Troubleshooting and fixing these problems, however, generally require the services of a boatyard and/or replacing the unit. Which, of course, you’ll want to have happen asap—unless you’re the one person who finds hauling the anchor manually fun exercise.

The post Troubleshooting Common Anchor Windlass Issues appeared first on Yachting.

The editors at Yachting have teamed up with the experts at Imtra to bring you advice on how to keep your boat in Bristol condition and get the most from your hours spent out on the water. For more great tips, see Next Level Yachting with Imtra »

What is the difference between horizontal & vertical windlasses?

The terms “horizontal” and “vertical” refer to the orientation of the main-shaft of the windlass, so if the shaft is parallel to the deck, it’s a horizontal windlass, and if it is perpendicular to the deck, it is a vertical windlass. One way to think about this is the way that the chainwheel spins when the windlass is being operated. If the chainwheel spins like a merry-go-round, it’s a vertical windlass, and if it spins like a Ferris wheel it’s a horizontal windlass.

Can windlasses handle rope & chain?

All anchor windlasses are designed to handle chain, but not all windlasses can manage rope. To manage rope a windlass must have a chainwheel that has grooves or teeth on the inner part of the wheel to grip the rope. The majority of windlasses that manage rope are equipped with what is called a pressure finger; a spring-loaded metal or plastic arm that pivots on a post, using the spring pressure to push the rope into the inner grooves of the chainwheel. Generally speaking, vertical windlasses are better at handling rope than horizontal windlasses because the rope makes a 180-degree turn around the chainwheel on a vertical windlass, meaning the chainwheel has more contact with the rope, giving it a better grip than a horizontal windlass which only makes contact with the rope for roughly a 90-degree turn.

How do I determine the size and power of windlass for my boat?

While many boaters often try to size the windlass based on the size of the boat, the main determining factor to consider is the combined weight of the anchor, chain and/or rope that the windlass will be deploying and hauling. Your windlass is intended to lift the anchor and rode and should not be used to pull the boat up to the anchor. A typical rule of thumb is to total the weight of your anchor plus rode and multiply that weight by three. Whatever that number comes out to should be the minimum “power rating” or “maximum load” of the windlass. For example: if your ground tackle weighs 300 lbs. you should have a windlass that is rated for 900 lbs. or more. So if you use all chain and no rope in your anchor rode, you will need a more powerful windlass than if you use a combination of chain and rope, as chain is heavier than rope.

Can a windlass bear the weight of my boat?

The short answer is no. Much like you shouldn’t use the windlass to pull the boat up to the anchor, you also shouldn’t leave the weight of the boat resting on the windlass when anchored. Leaving the weight of the boat on the windlass can shock-load it in waves or gusts of wind which will cause damage to the chainwheel, gears and mainshaft of the windlass.

If you are using rope, you should wrap that rope on a cleat at the bow, taking the tension off the windlass. If the rode is all chain, you should use a snubber line which has a hook on one end to hook into a chain link, then cleat the other end to the boat, and let more chain out of the windlass until the snubber line is taught and bearing the weight of the boat, not the chain on the windlass.

Do I need a circuit breaker for my electric windlass?

Every electric windlass should have a circuit breaker to protect both the electric motor of the windlass from burning out under extreme load, as well as to prevent damage to the deck or hull of the boat. Many windlasses are strong to enough to rip themselves right off the deck of the boat, or bend and break a bow roller if the anchor were to get permanently stuck on something, so it’s important to have a circuit breaker to kill power to the windlass if it is exceeding its maximum load.

How big of an anchor locker do I need for an electric windlass?

As a general rule an anchor locker should have at least 16 inches of clearance from the underside of the deck to the top of the pile of your anchor rode. Anything less can cause the windlass to jam or tangle the rode up. For a vertical windlass with the motor and gearbox below deck, a deeper anchor locker is required than for a horizontal windlass where the entire windlass is on deck.

What control options do I have to operate my electric windlass?

If you use a solenoid control box in the circuit, which the vast majority of windlass installations do, then the control options are nearly endless. With a control box, you can wire just about any up/down control switch you prefer to operate it. You could use a footswitch up at the windlass, an up/down switch mounted at the helm, a plug-in handheld remote, a wireless remote or even a combination of all of the above. However, without a control box, you’d need to use a high-amperage switch that can handle the full electrical load of the windlass, which would typically be a large footswitch installed in the deck near the windlass.

If you haven’t yet chosen your windlass, or just want to learn more, be sure to check out our article on How to Choose the Right Anchor Windlass or feel free to reach out to our team of experts with any further questions.

The post 7 Common Questions About Electric Anchor Windlasses appeared first on Yachting.

Removing and replacing an old windlass is one of the most satisfying DIY projects a boater can undertake, but one expert says that the devil is in the details on any new installation. “It may not be rocket science,” says Jim Thomas, windlass specialist at Imtra, which distributes both the Muir and Lofrans brands. “But there are questions that need to be answered even before a do-it-yourselfer starts cutting holes or removing the old windlass.”

Thomas says that boaters need to pay attention not only to whether the windlass is vertical or horizontal, but also the physical size of the new windlass, its power draw, the depth of the anchor locker, and what rode materials will be used in the new system. Thomas has been answering questions about windlass installations for more than two decades and invites anyone interested in a refit to contact him (jim@imtra.com) for advice before getting started. “Many of our windlass sales go to boatyards for installation, but some boat owners will tackle the project themselves.”

Thomas mentioned that even though Imtra sells windlasses primarily through trade channels, the company will offer boat owners “the best advice it can” to make the installation go as smoothly as possible. Thomas even provides paper templates to owners at boat shows allowing them to compare the potential new windlass to the existing footprint of the original. This provides a clear perspective on the challenges of using existing deck cutouts. Knowing what will need to be filled, cut or modified takes the mystery out of the upgrade.

He sometimes asks boat owners for photos of the foredeck and anchor locker. “We do each project one windlass at a time,” Thomas says. “It’s important for owners to understand the different factors that make for a successful installation,” he says.

The different factors include vessel length and displacement, weight of the anchor, weight and length of the chain, plus the anchoring environment. Windlass types include horizontal, vertical, manual, electric or hydraulic. Some manage an all chain rode, others select a combination rope/chain rode. Where a combination rope/chain rode provides less total weight in the bow, it requires a scope of 7:1 when deploying the anchor. An all chain rode will increase bow weight, however, the scope can often be reduced to as little as 3:1. This can be a huge advantage in a tight anchorage, and it makes for a sound night’s sleep knowing that an all chain rode is deployed.

A new windlass involves both mechanical and electrical steps that need to be taken into consideration, says Thomas. “Owners like to talk about how big their boats are, but we’re more interested in what the windlass will actually be lifting,” he says. “Is it 350 pounds of chain for a blue-water sailing vessel or 100 pounds of rope and chain for a weekend boater rarely using the anchor? Those questions are important since even the same windlass types have different motor options.”

Getting the right roller for the windlass is vital too. “Pairing the anchor and roller correctly is an important starting point since the rollers are designed for specific anchor types – claw, fluke, wing or grapnel,” says Thomas. “Some anchors are self-launching and others are not. If you don’t have a roller, it’s important to find the right one.”

“A lot of refits on boats with no previous windlasses involve finding the best position,” says Thomas. “Are we going to locate the windlass on deck or on a shelf platform under a hatch? Some boats have been designed with undersized anchor lockers to maximize interior space, so we need to find out what type of depth we have in the locker.” Thomas says that ideally, 15 to 18 inches or more clearance from the top of the stowed rode to the underside of the deck is a good starting point, adding that windlasses also like a straight drop because redirecting the rode can create drag. Shallow anchor lockers create challenges as they don’t provide the necessary “drop” to offer hands free flaking as the rode is being recovered.

Beyond the mechanical considerations, electrical draw is also critical to any windlass system. “We need to find out the distance between the battery source and windlass to ensure that the wiring is correctly sized” says Thomas. “If we’re adding a larger windlass, we also need to make sure the circuit breaker is appropriately sized to avoid nuisance tripping. The electrical part of the refit is just as important as cutting holes or any other mechanical steps.”

Many boaters prefer to use a hand held remote or a cockpit switch, however, Imtra encourages that footswitches also be installed. “We respect the thought process that goes into this, but what if water intrudes into the hand remote or the helm switch malfunctions,” says Thomas. “If they have a pair of footswitches, we see it as a safeguard against potential system failure. It’s a matter of redundancy.” Imtra’s goal is to make the windlass system as safe as possible since it is a critical part of a boat’s operation. Finally, boat owners will need to a choose specific finishes that range from chromed bronze, stainless steel, anodized aluminum or FRP housing. “Those options are often dictated by the brand,” says Thomas. “But many owners want the windlasses to enhance the look of the boat. Some even paint their FRP windlass housing to match the colors of their gelcoat.”

For more information about Imtra, its Muir and Lofrans windlasses, or its full offering of anchoring accessories, please visit www.imtra.com or call 508-995-7000.

The post Windlass refits: 90% Preparation, 10% Inspiration appeared first on Yachting.