If you live in a climate where the temperature drops below freezing, winterizing your outboard engine is critical. In fact, a failure to winterize followed by a blast of frosty weather can cause significant damage, leaving you with a fat repair bill come spring. Fortunately, winterizing an outboard isn’t very complex and most do-it-yourselfers can get the job done in an afternoon. In fact, we can break it down into a series of four easy steps:

1. Flush the motor
2. Change the oil
3. Fog the motor
4. Stabilize the fuel

Flushing an Outboard Motor

We certainly hope you’re familiar with this process, because flushing with clean fresh water after each and every trip is one of the best ways to extend your outboard engine’s lifespan. All modern outboards have a flushing port threaded to fit a common garden hose, which allows you to flush the engine without starting it up. Find the port (look in your owner’s manual if it isn’t obvious), spin on the hose, turn on the water, and let it flow for at least five minutes. If you have an old model engine without a flushing port, you can place a set of earmuffs over the water intakes, turn on the water, then start the engine and run it until it’s thoroughly flushed out.

Changing the Oil

In a modern four-stroke outboard, you’ll have two oil changes to perform: the powerhead oil and the lower unit oil. Two-strokes don’t have powerhead oil, but will still need a lower unit oil change. To change the lower unit oil, you need to remove the top and bottom drain screws and catch all the old oil in a pan, for recycling later. Be sure the engine is tilted slightly up to angle the lower unit downwards, so all the oil drains out. After it is fully drained, use a lower-unit oil pump to pump fresh oil into the lower unit. When oil begins seeping out of the top hole, it’s full. Replace the top screw first, then remove the oil-pump fitting and quickly replace the lower screw before oil has a chance to seep out.

Changing the powerhead oil is very similar to changing the oil in an automobile; there will be a dipstick for measuring oil level, a drain for catching the old oil in a pan, an upper port for adding new oil with a funnel, and of course, a filter that needs to be replaced. If the locations for these aren’t obvious when you remove the cowl, refer to your engine’s owner’s manual. It’s also a good idea to check that manual ahead of time so you know what type of oil to use and how much you’ll need to replace.

Why change the oil now, as part of the winterization process? Oils have acid buildups that are created as the engine is run, and when that outboard is going to sit for an extended time it’s best to make sure the oil is fresh. Changing the oil now also offers a chance to be sure that there’s no water contamination (it will look milky), which could lead to freeze-damage when the temperatures drop.

Fogging an Outboard Motor

With older outboards, fogging was a rather painstaking process where you had to spray fluid into the carburetor and cylinders. Good news, folks: most of the outboards out there today have EFI fuel-delivery systems rather than those old carburetors. And in most cases, you can fog the motor by adding fogging fluid to a portable fuel tank, removing the fuel line at the filter and placing it in the portable tank, then running the fuel/fogging oil mix through the engine. Be sure to follow your owner’s manual recommendations and the instructions on the fogging oil to get the right ratio for the fuel and oil mix.

Note that if you use your outboard throughout the winter at least once a month, there’s no need for fogging it. In fact, many boaters skip fogging altogether and simply make sure they run the outboard up to operating temperature at least once every three to four weeks.

Stabilizing the Fuel

With today’s ethanol fuel, it’s very important to add a fuel stabilizer when your boat will sit for extended periods of time. First, fill the tank so there isn’t a lot of open space where condensation might form, then add the stabilizer directly into the fuel tank in the amount as per the manufacturer’s instructions.

What about antifreeze? With an outboard, it’s completely unnecessary just as long as you remember to store the engine in the tilted-down position. Outboards are designed to drain completely when tilted down, so water damage won’t be any issue. That said, it’s a good idea to tilt the engine up and down a couple of times and watch for any water coming out to make sure it’s completely drained. Then you can disconnect the battery and put it on a trickle-charger for the winter, address winterizing the boat itself, securely cover the boat , and then kick back and wait for the return of warmer weather and another boating season.

The post Winterizing Outboard Engines appeared first on Yachting.

Whether it’s a new installation or time for some maintenance, knowing how to bleed a boat’s hydraulic steering system is a must.

Learning how to bleed a vessel’s hydraulic steering system is often born out of necessity. Case in point: A few years ago, I pulled my boat straight out of the slip, made a 90-degree turn by opposing the twin engines, then idled towards a dog-leg in the marina that would lead me to open water. When I reached the dog-leg, I spun the wheel to starboard and, well, nothing happened. A quick glance over the shoulder confirmed that both engines were still nearly centered. With just 30 feet between my boat and a line of pilings and bows, I threw both engines into reverse and came to a full stop—just short of my boat’s bowrail meeting the Danforth anchor perched atop a bow pulpit. I maneuvered back to the slip using the engines, only, then set about bleeding the steering system.

How to Bleed a Single Cylinder Hydraulic Steering System

This process isn’t difficult, but it does require two people because you need one at the helm and another at the steering cylinder. First, get some oil-absorbent pads ready in case any hydraulic fluid makes a mess (which is usually the case). Open the reservoir at the helm and top it off. Then connect the filler tube and oil bottle, and invert the oil bottle so the filler tube fills with hydraulic steering fluid. Poke a hole in the bottom of the inverted bottle so the fluid can freely run out of the bottle and into the system. The person at the helm needs to keep an eye on the filler tube and replace the bottle if it runs empty, to prevent introducing more air into the system.

Next, turn the wheel all the way to starboard. Then the person positioned at the cylinder should open the starboard-side bleeder valve and prepare a container to catch fluid that comes out. (It’s not a bad idea to attach a short length of hose to the bleeder valve so you can direct any fluid that comes out into a container, to minimize the mess). He or she needs to hold the cylinder in place while the person at the helm turns the wheel to port, until air bubbles cease coming out of the bleeder valve. When no more air is coming through, the valve can be closed. Now repeat the process with the portside bleeder valve.

Read More: Yacht Maintenance

How to Bleed Twin Cylinder Hydraulic Steering Systems

Simply follow this same procedure on each cylinder, one after the other. Complete each cylinder individually one at a time, rather than doing both starboard sides then both port sides.

How to Bleed Multiple Station Hydraulic Steering Systems

If your boat has two stations, you’ll need to do each one individually. The good news is that there are no additional steps in this case, either. Simply follow this exact same process at wheel number one, then do it again from wheel number two.

So, how do you know the system is fully purged? You should be able to turn the wheel smoothly from lock to lock sans bumps or hesitations. A sea trial is the best way to get a feel for how smoothly the steering system is working, but at the dock you can usually feel if there are any major air bubbles remaining.

Before you start bleeding the system, however, it’s mission critical to remember that air doesn’t just mysteriously appear in a boat’s properly functioning hydraulic steering system. If air got in there, it most likely found its way in via some sort of leak at a connection point. As a first step, it’s a good idea to check every connection point and seal, look for the telltale sign of hydraulic fluid where it doesn’t belong, and fix the leak. Fail to do so, and chances are that in a day, a week or a month, your steering will be problematic once again.

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When someone’s shopping for brokerage boats with outboard motors, one thing they’ll hear over and over is that they should check engine compression before making any purchases. But, what is a compression test in the first place? What do the results mean? And, just what does it tell potential boat owners?

A compression check measures how much pressure is built up by the motion of the pistons in each individual cylinder. As a piston goes up and down inside the cylinder, the piston rings create a seal against the cylinder wall. At the top of the piston’s upstroke, fuel and air are compressed before ignition via the spark plug. With age and use, the engine’s internal parts can wear and over time their compression abilities degrade. The compression test is a great way to find out if a cylinder is damaged and is losing compression, without having to open the engine up and look inside.

If you’re worried that learning how to check compression for your outboard will be difficult, it’s actually very simple. That said, it’s best done with two people, so one can turn the key and crank the engine while the other person operates the gauge. Otherwise, if you’re alone you’ll have to go back and forth from the helm to the motor over and over again. When performing a compression test, some pros recommend warming up the engine first, but some others don’t. Same goes for advancing the throttle versus leaving it in the neutral position. In any case, neither step is critical to getting informative results.

The first step is to remove the engine’s cowl and then all of the spark plugs. Next, screw the end of the compression gauge (they’re inexpensive and readily available in most auto parts stores, though you may need to purchase an adaptor to fit different threads) into the first cylinder. Crank the engine for about five seconds so it turns at least five times, then look at the gauge and record the psi reading. After you’ve written the results down, remove the gauge and screw it into the next cylinder. Repeat the process until you’ve recorded the compression readings for all the cylinders.

Note that the engine won’t be able to fire up because the spark plugs have been removed. However, on many outboard models fuel will still be injected into the cylinder. So, a compression test should never be performed near an open flame or while smoking.

Read More: Yacht Maintenance

Okay: now you have a set of numbers written down, but just what do they mean? It would be nice if we could say they should be between “X” and “Y” psi, but different outboard sizes, makes and models will produce different results. The critical thing to look for is variation in the readings. All of the cylinders should show a psi within about 10 percent of each other. A lot of variation in the readings indicates that one or more of the cylinders has a problem, and therefore, running the engine could be a risky proposition.

Deviations in compression can be caused by a number or problems, but all of them are significant. A cylinder could be scored, the rings could be worn, or one of them could be broken (in which case there’s a good chance you also have a scored cylinder), or there could be a carbon buildup causing the rings to stick. If two adjacent cylinders show low compression, there’s a strong possibility the head gasket is bad between those two cylinders. In any of these cases, however, the bottom line is the same: significant repair bills will likely be in the future. And if you ignore the problem and continue using the engine, catastrophic damage could be the end result.

The post How to Check Outboard-Motor Compression appeared first on Yachting.

Sure, it’s natural to be a bit depressed when the boating season comes to an end, but keep your chin up and a smile on your face because in a few short months you’ll be ripping away that shrink wrap and prepping for spring again. When that time comes, you’ll want the boat to operate just as smoothly as it did when you put it to bed in the fall, and properly winterizing the engine(s) and generator will ensure that it does.

Whether you’re working on the main propulsion system or a generator (diesel or gasoline), in all cases the boat-winterizing process can be broken down into five steps:

• Stabilize the Fuel System
• Change the Fluids
• Drain and/or Winterize the Cooling System
• Visually Inspect the Systems
• Seal and/or Protect any Openings to the Outside

Stabilizing the Fuel System

You’ll want to lay up your boat with full fuel tanks to prevent condensation from forming, however, all fuel has a shelf-life. Over time, varnish and gum can build up in diesel fuel, and gasoline loses octane. If the gas has ethanol in it, the dreaded phase separation can set in too. Adding in a quality fuel stabilizer is key if you want a successful startup come spring. And, after adding it to the tanks be sure to run the engine(s) or generator long enough to allow the treated fuel to work its way all the way through the systems.

Change the Fluids

Now’s the time to change the engine’s oils (including lower unit or transmission oil) and, in the case of a closed-cooling system, the coolant as well. All of these fluids deteriorate over time, and with use. Old oil builds up acids and contaminants, and the corrosion-fighting additives in coolants and antifreeze wear thin with age. You’ll want to change all these fluids now, not in the spring, to prevent those contaminants from doing any harm over the winter.

Drain or Winterize the Cooling System

Any engine’s cooling system needs to be completely drained of all water and/or have antifreeze added to prevent freeze damage. Fail to take this step, and the results can be catastrophic. Generally speaking, this will include bringing the engine up to operating temperature and then pulling drain plugs and/or replacing water with antifreeze (excepting outboard engines, which drain fully when tilted all the way down). That said, every manufacturer has its own recommendations for how to perform the task. In some cases, failing to have an authorized dealer perform the winterization may even void the warranty. So, we aren’t going to get into specifics here — you’ll need to refer to the owner’s manual for your particular engine or generator to ascertain exactly what needs to be done.

Visually Inspect the Systems

Prior to putting the boat to bed for winter, take the time to inspect hoses, belts, electrical connections and all the other visible exterior parts on the engines and generators. In fact, now’s the time to inspect all the hoses, wires and other items in the engine room that are subject to aging, whether they’re attached to the engines and generators or not. If there’s a problem like a cracking, aged hose, spot it now and you’ll have plenty of time to have it fixed before the spring rolls around. But if you wait until the weather begins warming back up to perform these basic inspections, the boatyards and mechanics will be busy and it could lead to significant launch delays.

Seal and/or Protect any Openings to the Outside

Finally, you’ll want to seal exterior openings like exhaust ports and water intakes (most people simply tape plastic over them and/or tape down flapper valves, if present). This will help keep out moisture, but just as important, it will help keep out critters. Nothing is worse than getting ready for a spring shakedown cruise only to discover a nest of wasps or a family of mice has decided to take up residence inside your boat.

Winterize your engines and generator properly and come spring you should be back out on the water in no time. That alone should be enough to keep a smile on your face all winter long.

The post How To Winterize A Boat’s Engines and Generator appeared first on Yachting.

Most boat and yacht owners take care when it comes to their vessel’s engines, but unfortunately, few pay the same amount of attention to the generator. And what is a generator, after all, but another engine. In fact, in some ways marine generators live an even more difficult life than a boat’s primary propulsion. They may sit for extended periods without being used, get pressed into service for hour upon hour, suffer from deferred maintenance and live in a compact corner of an engine room. If not properly maintained, they’re subject to failure. So be sure to treat your boat’s marine generator with respect, including:

• Following the Manufacturer’s Recommended Maintenance Schedule
• Performing Pre-Trip Checks
• Preventing Generator Overload

Following the Manufacturer’s Recommended Maintenance Schedule

As is true with any internal-combustion engine, generators have regular service needs. The specifics will vary from unit to unit, so this is one of those cases where the best we can say is to follow the manufacturer’s recommended procedures. You can expect most marine generators to require regular daily-use, checks on fluid levels and oil- and fuel-filter changes at specific engine hour intervals; air filter cleanings and/or replacements; water/fuel separator replacements; belt checks/tensioning/replacements at specific intervals; impeller inspections and changes; and sacrificial anode inspections and replacement. Remember, this isn’t a complete list so be sure to check the owner’s manual to find out what else is required, along with the timing of each check or replacement.

Performing Pre-Trip Checks

Each and every time you leave the dock, the generator should be on the pre-trip checklist even if you don’t think you’ll be running the generator on that specific voyage. Again, we suggest consulting your generator’s owner’s manual, but as a rule you’ll see these items on the list:

• Visually inspect to be sure ventilation is not impeded.
• Make sure the water intake is not impeded (including checking raw-water strainers, and making sure seacocks and valves are open).
• Visually inspect wiring connections and mounting hardware, to make sure nothing has vibrated loose.
• Check belt tension.
• Check all fluid levels.

On top of checking these items every time you run your boat, there are also some things you’ll want to look at on a regular basis if you haven’t run your generator for more than a week. These include:

• Starting the generator, visually inspecting for leaks, and listening for unfamiliar noises.
• Running the generator for 15 minutes or so under load, while eyeballing the temperature and making sure it holds steady.
• Visually inspecting exhaust to make sure it’s not producing excessive smoke.
• Test the charge on the starter battery and top it off, if required.
• Check hose clamps to make sure they’re tight (and tighten if necessary).

Preventing Generator Overload

Your boat was likely outfitted with an appropriately sized generator from the start, but sometimes the units aren’t quite up to the task. In other cases, you may have added or upgraded systems on the boat and increased the electrical load. Either way, it’s important not to overload your generator or failure may be one flick of a switch away.

Judging how much is too much can be difficult, and overload breakers are meant as a backup measure, not the first line of defense. Still, most often, boaters who overload a generator realize it after the fact. So whenever the generator is running, be on the lookout for signs of an overload. One of the most common is overheating. If you notice the temperature gauge is peaking higher than normal, or if you hear the generator working harder than usual, reduce the load immediately. Another common sign is failing systems. If the air conditioning is struggling when you run the microwave, for example, you’re overloading the generator.

If there is soot buildup at the generator’s exhaust port or it looks abnormally smokey while the generator is running, take that as a sign it may be overloading. There can be other causes for excessive or dirty exhaust, such as fuel, air or injector issues. But overloading can cause it to happen, too, so if you suspect that could be an issue the first step is to reduce load and see if it continues.

When you flip those switches aboard your boat you want everything to work, and you need power for that to happen. In other words, you need your generator. So treat it wisely, give it the maintenance it needs, prevent overloads and you’ll keep that marine generator running reliably for years to come.

The post Keep Your Boat’s Generator Running appeared first on Yachting.

Outboard-engine hydraulic-steering systems are common on modern boats, and it’s no wonder why: they’re easy to operate, reliable and robust. But you may wonder, how does that hydraulic steering system work? And how does a boat owner keep it working properly?

How Outboard Hydraulic Steering Works

All outboard hydraulic steering systems have two main components: the helm and the cylinder. The helm incorporates a hydraulic pump and valves that force fluid into the hydraulic lines. Many helm units also incorporate the hydraulic fluid reservoir (though with some systems this is an individual component).

Back at the outboard, the cylinder is what actually turns the motor. When the steering wheel is turned one way or the other, the helm will pump fluid into either the port or starboard line to push the cylinder rod and turn the outboard.

Naturally, there are a lot of other smaller pieces and parts that also come into play. Depending on the exact steering system, additional hydraulic lines, reservoirs, autopilot pumps, valves, tie bars,and/or liquid tie bars may be used as well. Some of the newest digital systems may also have “smart” hydraulic cylinders and electronic helms, power assistance, and/or CANbus autopilots for fly-by-wire operation.

Maintaining Outboard Hydraulic Steering

Most outboard-engine hydraulic-steering systems are quite robust, but like any system, they require regular maintenance. The number one item for a boat owner to be aware of is the system’s fluid level. If the fluid level begins to drop, it’s indicative of a leak in the system and steering response will be impacted accordingly. So, before each and every use of the boat, perform a visual check of hydraulic fluid level as per the manufacturer’s instructions for the specific system. Note: if there is milky or discolored fluid when inspecting the fluid reservoir, water may have contaminated the system. This generally means identifying how water got into the fluid, resolving the issue, and then flushing the entire system. This can be a difficult task, and is usually best left to a professional.

Any time fluid level appears to have dropped-or if the steering wheel can be turned a quarter-turn or more without a satisfactory steering response- the lines and connection points should be checked for leaks. Run a hand along the lines to help identify any spots that may be chafed or worn, and if there is fluid felt at a low point in the lines follow it uphill to the source. Also, feel around connections and fittings for any leaking fluid. Tighten connections as necessary, and/or call a professional for repairs. Finally, run fingers around the glands on the cylinder ends. These can’t be tightened so if a leak is found, they’ll have to be replaced.

Owners also want to be aware of where age, the marine environment and wear may have taken a toll on the system’s parts. So, visual inspections should also be given to key components, including the exterior of the lines and all connection points, the cylinder and cylinder shaft, and the helm. When inspecting the cylinder shaft look for corrosion or damage, which may require replacement. The support rod should also be cleaned and greased annually. Additionally, inspect the helm unit both above and below the dash for corrosion and/or wear.

Bleeding an Outboard Hydraulic Steering System

If a leak is identified and fixed, hydraulic fluid needs to be added and any air has to be bled out of the system. This process is fairly simple for some systems and not so simple for others, and should be performed as per the manufacturer’s instructions. (Instructions should be readily available in the owner’s manual or via an internet search). Note, however, that this is commonly a two-person job as it can require manipulating the engine(s) and the wheel at the same time. It can also get messy because hydraulic fluid can be expelled from the reservoir during the process, so have plenty of oil-absorbent pads available.

When inspected and maintained regularly, most outboard-engine hydraulic steering systems last for years, often for just as long as the outboards themselves. Taking care of it properly, ensures easy and accurate steering for the long haul.

The post Hydraulic-Steering System Maintenance Tips appeared first on Yachting.

Last month we took a look at five of the top 10 most common diesel engine issues and their fixes, and now it’s time to dig into five more.

Marine Diesel Engine Oil Issues

Oil is the lifeblood of a marine-diesel engine, and it’s critical to immediately address and fix any issues that may arise with it. Let’s start by assuming that you regularly check and monitor the oil in the system, because that’s one of the most basic and important aspects of running a diesel. And that means that one day, you may discover the engine is consuming excessive amounts. This often happens with age, if there is a leak in the system, or if your diesel is burning oil.

Step one in finding the right fix is identifying the exact cause. First, consider any changes made in oil use and confirm that you’re using the correct type, viscosity and level. Check the oil and look for contaminants, which can give it a dark coloration. Check the exhaust to see if there’s a bit more smoke than previously seen, or if you smell burning oil. If any of these factors are off perform an oil and filter change then monitor the oil’s condition closely moving forward. If oil levels continue to drop and you can’t isolate a leak, you may have a more significant issue, like worn rings, leaking gaskets or a timing problem.

Cylinder Liner Wear in Marine Diesel Engines

Cylinder liner wear is not uncommon in marine-diesel engines and usually occurs with age. Indicators of wear include rough idling, smokey exhaust, cylinder blow-by, troubled starting, loss of power and variations in turbo speed. Unfortunately, once cylinder liner wear progresses to a problematic point there’s no simple fix — it’s probably time for an overhaul.

Diesel Fuel Additives

Many people think of diesel-fuel additives mostly as a way to prevent microbial growth and reduce corrosion, but some additives may also enhance lubricity, which is important for the fuel-oil system and may help protect the injectors and fuel pumps. So, why is it listed among the problems with marine-diesel engines? There’s an awful lot of hype around additives, but few provable claims, and it’s difficult to determine which brand is right for your needs. As a result of the uncertainty surrounding diesel-fuel additives, the smart “fix” is simply to follow your engine manufacturer’s recommendations.

Fuel Oil Systems in Marine Diesel Engines

Different diesel engines have different fuel oil systems, but generally speaking the most common problems that arise with them are related to leaks in the lines, fittings, and/or pumps. Leaks aren’t only messy, they can also reduce pressure and/or allow air into the lines. Air can also get into the lines during filter changes, any time a fitting in the system is cracked open for any reason, or if you run the tanks dry. If this happens it may be necessary to bleed the fuel lines and purge out any air.

The process will differ a bit from model to model, so follow the manufacturer’s instructions It will often be necessary to start the engine then repeat the process, sometimes several times, to get all the air out. Note, however, that while bleeding the system will get you up and running, if you have a leak it will just happen again. So, identifying and fixing any leaks in the system is imperative.

Fuel-Water Separator Issues

A loss of power, rough starting, a lag in acceleration and smoke in the exhaust can all be indications of a fuel-water separator and/or filter issue. You may have a defective separator, but most often this isn’t a problem with the filter or separator itself, but with your fuel system in general. If the water separator fills or your filters clog, the prime suspect is the fuel in your tanks. You may have filled up with contaminated fuel, condensation may have formed in your tanks, or it could be the result of a loose or leaky fuel fill cap. The first fix is simply to drain the filter bowl, run the engine, and see if it quickly fills back up. If so, you’ll probably want to call in a professional service to pump, filter, and polish the fuel.

Today’s marine diesel engines are extremely reliable, but any mechanical system is subject to issues now and again. Whenever you see one of these problems arise it’s important to address it immediately, to prevent further wear and premature failure. Maintain and monitor your yacht’s diesels properly and they should last trouble-free for years.

The post The 10 Most Common Diesel Engine Issues and Fixes: Part 2 appeared first on Yachting.

Modern diesel inboard engines are shockingly reliable, but anything mechanical can and will have problems. And every yacht owner should know about the 10 most common diesel-engine issues and their fixes. Troubleshooting many of these problems with a modern diesel engine will often be as simple as glancing at the error code flashing at the helm, but it’s still important that you know what’s going on with those iron beasts lurking belowdecks. And naturally, there’s a lot of information that needs to be addressed. We’ve broken down our top 10 list into a series, and in part one we’ll take a close look at the first five most common diesel-engine issues.

Marine Diesel Engine Overheating Under Load

When a marine diesel engine is overheating under load but not at idle, there’s a good chance that the cause isn’t the one most commonly related to marine engines overheating: blockage at the raw-water intakes and/or strainers. If that were the problem, the engine would probably be overheating whether it was under load or not. Partial blockage is still a possibility, however, so step one in the troubleshooting process is to check out the intakes and strainers, and clean them if necessary. The next culprits are water pumps, their impellers, and supporting systems such as drive belts. Note that if you check the pump impeller and any pieces or parts are missing, replacing the impeller alone may not completely resolve the issue. You also have to locate and remove the bits and pieces of that old impeller or they may continue to clog up the works.

There are plenty of other potential problems like scaled-up heat exchangers or clogged hoses that you may need to check out. Most, however, will likely cause overheating at all speeds. If your problem is related specifically to operation under load, look at the other issues here and you’ll likely find the fix. If not, it’s time to call a pro.

How to Clean a Marine Diesel Engine

Diesels like living in a clean environment and leaving them caked in contaminants can cause numerous problems. Cleaning one, however, can be a challenge. Steam cleaning is an excellent option, but requires specific equipment that most of us don’t own. The next best method of cleaning a diesel is to first remove chunks or caked-on grease with a rag, then use biodegradable or citrus-based degreaser to completely clean off the outer surfaces. Difficult spots can be scrubbed with a toothbrush or similar soft-bristle brush to loosen up the crud.

Marine Diesel Engine Starting Problems

When your yacht’s engine won’t turn over, the first step is to ensure that the battery switches are turned on and the throttles are in neutral. Then verify that the batteries have juice. If they do, you more than likely have a bad solenoid or a bad starter.

If the engine cranks fine but won’t start, the cause is probably either fuel or air related. That means the first step is checking and cleaning filters—any and all of them. If there aren’t any problems there, you could be dealing with contaminated fuel.

Marine Diesel Engines White Smoke

White smoke is generally caused by unburned fuel. A bit upon start-up when the engine is cold isn’t abnormal, but it should disappear quickly. If not, there’s a good chance you have an injector problem. Piston ring blow-by, worn valve seats, a blown head gasket, or a cracked cylinder head are also possibilities. In all of these cases, finding a DIY fix isn’t in the cards and bringing in a professional is in order.

Charge Air Cooler Marine Diesel Engine Problems

Problems with the charge air cooler can be tough to notice because they commonly take place slowly over time, but the net result is a general loss of power and efficiency. This can occur because the thin metal fins grow dirty on the air side and/or have scaling on the water side. If fins on the air side are visibly dirty, they can be blasted clean with compressed air or gently sprayed with water (be careful not to use enough pressure to bend the thin metal). But a complete cleaning for either side requires a chemical bath, which should only be attempted by a professional.

The post The 10 Most Common Diesel Engine Issues and Fixes: Part 1 appeared first on Yachting.