One of the photos USA Today ran in September 2017 to show damage after Hurricane Irma was of Bud N’ Mary’s Marina, an icon of the Florida Keys on Islamorada that has been around since 1944. More than 40 fishing captains and guides tie up there, and the docks were utterly mangled.

Today, it’s like none of it ever happened.

“Our part of the Keys, and I think probably Keys-wide, everything’s back to normal,” says Stephen Byrd, the marina’s assistant manager. “Especially from Marathon up to the north—you won’t see probably any sign of any damage.”

Even better, he says, since Irma left, inshore fishing has improved. Florida Bay was “flushed out,” with old water gone and newer water in.

“It’s a refreshing of sorts,” he says. “The bonefishing is better now, snook fishing is great, tarpon fishing—it’s good.”

Offshore fishing is also still solid, he says, because Irma didn’t wreck the reef. As of December 2019, sailfishing was just as hot as it’s always been off Islamorada, and Byrd is expecting March and April to bring the same kind of bonanza that this time of year has meant in the past.

“March usually is the beginning of the spring season, so we’re still having cold fronts, but you start seeing the change in the weather pattern, and with that, the species start to change,” he says. “March is a really good time to fish because you still see the winter sailfish, the cobia and others, but you also start to see tuna showing up. It’s in the middle, so it’s a cool time.”

It’s a windy time too—winds are typically easterly at a minimum of 10 to 15 knots—but if yachtsmen can handle that, he says, then the only other consideration is getting a slip. Because so many marinas had to rebuild after Irma, locals moved their seasonal slip reservations around, taking some slips that used to be transient. Thus, visitors arriving by boat may need to adjust their usual dockage plans.

“Things just shifted,” Byrd says. “You just want to call ahead.”

Slips Available

Bud N’ Mary’s Marina on Islamorada has a limited number of slips available for visiting boats up to 45 feet length overall. Gas and diesel are at the fuel dock, and there’s a shop with bait, tackle and ice.

The post Islamorada Is Back appeared first on Yachting.

For yachtsmen who have long considered the Eden Rock on St. Barts to be the apex of shoreside excursions, the devastation Hurricane Irma wrought in 2017 was heartbreaking. The resort had to completely shut down for repairs—a potential tragedy the owners decided, instead, to use as an opportunity. This past November, the Eden Rock fully reopened with reimagined spaces, a new spa and more.

“It really was a team effort, and we are immensely grateful to our brilliant group of collaborators and colleagues who worked with us endlessly to reach this milestone,” says general manager Fabrice Moizan. “We also thank our shareholders for the fantastic opportunity to rethink and redesign every detail in order to create a brand-new Eden Rock but with the same deep-set values and attention paid to honoring our heritage.”

The new Eden Spa, by Ligne, represents a major change on the property. Previously, guests could get in-room treatments, but there was no dedicated spa building. The new facility includes a sitting room whose decor theme is “yacht on land.”

The always popular Sand Bar Restaurant has been expanded to include a Rémy Bar, named in honor of the property’s original owner, Rémy de Haenen. There’s also a new ER Beach Bar along with an Eden Being Boutique with signature art, jewelry and other gifts.

And, for those who want a night off the yacht, there is the Waterlily, a 2,045-square-foot waterfront hideaway on St. Jean Beach with a hot tub, infinity pool and more.

There will be plenty of charter yachts in the area too. In addition to the three at the top of this page, clients can book the 236-foot Dunya Axioma (part of the YPI Group fleet, with a beautician, massage therapist and yoga instructor on board); the 161-foot explorer yacht Asteria (part of the Edmiston fleet, and just finished a refit in 2019); and the 63-foot Nordhavn Asturias (part of the Superyacht Sales & Charter fleet, and one of the only Nordhavns available for charter anywhere in the world). Also of note in this part of the Caribbean for the season is the 143-foot Burger Pure Bliss, which is offering a limited-time weekly base rate of $128,000 through Ocean Independence, for the first couple bookings of the season.

Guests aboard those yachts and more can make the Eden Rock part of the itinerary. The proprietors hope visiting yachtsmen will feel just as excited as they are. As Moizan says: “The remaking of Eden Rock-St Barths has been an incredible adventure and a wonderfully rewarding experience on so many levels.”

Illusion V

Persuader

Aspen Alternative

Also Reopened: Le Sereno

• All guest rooms and waterfront suites have been rebuilt following Hurricane Irma.
• Restaurant Le Sereno has an all-new beach extension for water views while dining.
• The spa has been expanded to include products by Valmont, along with new fitness options.
• The Grand Suite Plage, with panoramic water views, has a newly furnished waterfront terrace and walkable garden.
• There are three villas on site, each 7,000 square feet on half-acre private gardens with four bedrooms, also renovated.

The post Hotspot: Eden Rock-St. Barths appeared first on Yachting.

The phrase “save your breath” has a completely different meaning for Carlos Coste than for almost everyone else on the planet. The man known as “the Freediving King” was the first human to descend 328 feet (100 meters) on a single breath. He has set 11 other freediving world records.

Coste discovered the sport during college in his native Venezuela. “From the first moment, I loved the sensation of freedom,” he says. “It’s only you in the water, so it’s a personal challenge with yourself, focusing on your body and your abilities in the depths.”

His body hit its limits in 2006, when he was gravely injured while attempting a 600-foot dive. Coste was paralyzed on his left side and spent months recovering in rehab. “I was always thinking about how I love this sport, love to be in the ocean, and how I can recover my abilities and return to freediving,” he says.

Coste made his comeback within a year. He has since set seven more records and opened his Deepsea Freediving School on Bonaire. “I have always loved sharing my passion for freediving,” he says. “Now, I get to share it with students from all over the world.”

How does it feel to be known as “the Freediving King?” I am super proud, but it is not only about setting records. It’s the fact that you feel like a real explorer. You discover new levels of concentration, new techniques and explore depths that no one has explored before in that way.

Why did you establish your freediving school on Bonaire? It’s the perfect spot for freediving. The reef is protected in the national marine park, and the water is always pure and clean, warm and calm.

What’s the hardest freediving skill for students to master? To relax. Once students allow themselves to relax, it opens up a new world of possibilities in the water.

Carlos Coste’s best of Bonaire

Peanuts Fresh Market Cafe (Kralendijk): You can have a nice coffee and Venezuelan chocolate, maybe an arepa or fresh bread. They have lots of healthy options.

Kite City (Kralendijk): It’s a food truck on beautiful Te Amo Beach, near the airport, with fresh and tasty fish. They have great sashimi, mahimahi, tuna burgers and crab.

1000 Steps: It’s a beautiful beach and reef in the north, a classic destination here on Bonaire.

The post Deep Dive appeared first on Yachting.

Ed Chesney wants owners of larger cruising boats to know not only that they are welcome to head to Florida’s west coast for the Major League Baseball’s spring training in February and March but also that his dock hands know exactly how to take care of them.

“We have 75-and 80-footers all the time,” says Chesney, the harbor master at Clearwater Harbor Marina. “The bigger boats are a trend. Ten years ago, 55 feet was the largest slip. We’ve outgrown that.”

Today, the city of Clearwater operates two marinas; the other is Clearwater Beach Marina. Between them, Chesney says, there are about 50 transient slips, and both locations can handle yachts as large as 100 feet.

The marinas will let transient boaters stay for 30 days (or longer, if there’s no waiting list), which is plenty of time to take in spring-training games at Spectrum Field, where the Philadelphia Phillies play, or at Dunedin Stadium, where the Toronto Blue Jays tune up.

And if anybody wants to skip the baseball in favor of Sunshine State sightseeing, Clearwater Marine Aquarium is within walking distance of the beach marina; the Clearwater Ferry water taxi runs to both marinas and to the aquarium. Kids who remember the 2011 film Dolphin Tale can meet Winter the Dolphin, see her prosthetic tail, and learn about the dangers that wayward monofilament lines pose.

And unlike some destinations at this time of year, Chesney says, Clearwater is short on bad influences.

“We get spring breakers too, but our beach isn’t really a spring break kind of beach,” he says. “It’s a more family-oriented beach.”

Things to do

For spring-training games with Major League Baseball teams, head to Spectrum Field, where the Philadelphia Phillies play in February and March. A few days will have double-headers. Dunedin Stadium is where the Toronto Blue Jays host their spring ball, also in February and March. “Chad the Beer Guy” is the fan favorite who leads the seventh-inning stretch here. The Clearwater Ferry water taxi runs from both municipal marinas in Clearwater and has a Dunedin route Thursday through Sunday, so boaters can get from the marinas to the games there. Clearwater Marine Aquarium, in addition to being home to the film-famous Winter the Dolphin, has boat and kayak tours, animal-care experiences and a working hospital for injured animals.

The post Florida’s Left Coast appeared first on Yachting.

As she welcomes more than 30,000 visitors a year to her family’s Belmont Estate on Grenada, owner Shadel Nyack Compton takes great joy in seeing them retrace her childhood wanderings through the verdant grounds of the 17th-century plantation. “My grandparents allowed us to explore every nook and cranny of the estate,” she says. “I loved strolling through the acres of cocoa and nutmeg trees.”

During the past 12 years, Nyack Compton has transformed what was a struggling agricultural concern into an agritourism destination, earning recognition as one of the Caribbean’s top entrepreneurs in the process. The estate indulges the senses with lush gardens, organic chocolates made on-site (a tree-to-bar tour explains the process) and Creole specialties such as callaloo soup served in the farm-to-table restaurant.

“We try to give visitors an authentic experience that embodies Grenadian history, culture, heritage and agriculture all packaged beautifully together,” she says.

• What drove you to transform Belmont Estate? My grandparents had defied the norm by being the first Indo-Grenadians to own a plantation. Belmont Estate was so rich in heritage and history that I couldn’t simply allow it to decay. Reviving it was the best way to honor my grandparents and contribute to the local economy.
• What does Belmont’s motto, “History in the Making,” mean to you? The estate evolved out of the institution of slavery, but we have made it into something positive, wholesome and educational, and we are continuing to make history here.
• What is your favorite flavor of chocolate made at Belmont? The Pure Grenada is a delicate blend of cinnamon, ginger, mace and nutmeg in a 60 percent chocolate bar, so it’s very dark with just a bit of sweetness and milk. It embodies Grenada’s history as the Spice Island.

Shadel’s Must-Do List on Grenada

• Grand Etang National Park and Forest Preserve (St. Andrew): With its densely forested mountains, imposing lake and mischievous mona monkeys, it is a surreal and majestic experience.
• Sails Restaurant and Bar (St. George’s): It has spectacular panoramic views and extraordinary Caribbean-fusion fare. The Indian tali is yummy.
• Yolo Sushi and Wine Bar (St. George’s): It has great service and food, with delicious vegan options. It’s in Port Louis, one of the most beautiful spots in St. George’s.

The post Best of Grenada appeared first on Yachting.

The first time I visited Oxford, Maryland, in 2004, I wrote that the place was like “a fly trapped in amber with a fistful of sawdust.” Walking through the town’s streets felt like strolling through some of the coolest pages in the history of boatbuilding. The population was only about 650 souls, and seasoned shipyard characters seemed to be around every corner. Some had hands callused from years of working in wood, or thick glasses from decades spent staring at lines plans. Big brands such as Hinckley had a presence, alongside places like the Cutts & Case Shipyard, which dates to 1965.

When I was there, Eddie Cutts Sr. was still in charge; we talked for a spell about how he’d spent two years restoring Foto, the 33-foot cedar chase boat that Morris and Stanley Rosenfeld used to photograph America’s Cup yachts in the Golden Age of Yachting. Today, the yard is run by Ronnie Cutts and Eddie Cutts Jr., keeping the family legacy—and the ­boatbuilding legacy—alive as Oxford gentrifies into a more tourism-friendly place.

“Instead of a true, honest-to-God working waterfront, now you have flowerbed competitions in the middle of town, festivals here, festivals there,” Cutts Jr. says. “It’s a fun little town with ice cream and good restaurants and all that kind of stuff. The boatbuilding and the ­marinas are all thriving and doing well.”

To visiting cruisers, he says, the place feels upgraded from 15 years ago.

“Everybody here is fierce about the place not changing too much,” he says. “I don’t think there will ever be a McDonald’s in the middle of Oxford. It’s a cool little town. I wouldn’t want to be anywhere else.”

The post Cruising Maryland appeared first on Yachting.

Iconic Light

A year and a half after Hurricane Matthew pummeled the Carolina coastline with brutal blows, Leslie Whitener can vividly recall scenes that, even today, seem surreal.

“I had the fuel docks five days after the storm, but there were a number of days that I didn’t have a dock at the fuel dock,” says Whitener, who is the assistant harbor master at Harbour Town Yacht Basin on Hilton Head, South Carolina. “Guys would have to tie up to the pilings.”

Oh, how things have changed. The marina is just about rebuilt, she says, after being closed for nearly nine months and then reopening piece by piece.

“Not all of the docks were replaced, but about 65 percent of them were, with all new power pedestals, dock boxes and everything,” she says. By the time you read this, the marina is expected to be ­fully reopened — with the same transient rates as before the storm, encouraging cruisers, anglers and superyacht owners to come back.

“The biggest we’ve ever put in here was a 172,” she told Yachting in January. “And we’re dredging as we speak right now, so we’ll have 9 to 10 feet [of draft] at low tide this summer.”

Transients get full access to the Sea Pines Resort, with its restaurants, tennis courts, outdoor entertainment, golf course and events.

Swimmers Always Welcome

“We have the RBC Heritage golf tournament in April,” she says. “It’s a huge draw, a great way to entertain clients. We fill the marina up with corporate boats looking to entertain clients. As far as we’ve been able to determine, we’re the only marina that’s adjacent to a PGA course. I’m looking at the 18th green.”

And because the storm caused a shutdown last year, cruisers went elsewhere; that means reservations for slips today can be made later than usual, sometimes with a few days’ notice thanks to the shortened waiting list. Boaters may still see some rebuilding in progress along the coast, she adds, but “it’s certainly better than it was this time last year.”

The post Why Hilton Head is a Must-See for Cruisers appeared first on Yachting.

Lock Building

As a young man I dreamed about sailing around the world. I had visions of being at the helm of a William Garden-designed ketch with a bone in her teeth on her way to a South Pacific island. Even as my life cycle progressed from carefree college days to raising a family and building a business, the dream never faded. But at some point reality hits all of us. If I couldn’t live my dream, I would modify it. Instead of circumnavigating the globe, I circumnavigated the eastern half of North America. I was no longer young and carefree; I was a middle-aged guy with a good job, a wife who loved boating and an 11-year-old son who loved the outdoors. So after years of planning, we embarked on an adventure of a lifetime, a one-year boat trip known as The Great Loop.

We first became aware of the loop through the early 1990s television series On the Waterways. This show introduced us to life along America’s great rivers and lakes, and we became intrigued by the idea of exploring our country from the comfort of our boat.

Our plan was to take a one-year sabbatical from work and follow a schedule that provided an endless summer of cruising. Leaving Annapolis, Maryland, in early July, we would head up the East Coast to the Hudson River, the Champlain Canal and Lake Champlain, continuing inland until reaching Montreal. From there, we would explore the Canadian waterways and arrive in Lake Michigan by mid-September. Taking six weeks to head down the rivers from Chicago to the Gulf of Mexico, we then hoped to cruise the Bahamas in late winter before heading up the Intracoastal Waterway (ICW) and returning to our home on the Chesapeake Bay.

Leg One: Annapolis to Montreal Distance: 700 miles

After we left our dock the first day, we were so exhausted from all the planning and preparation that we dropped anchor just a few miles from home to chill out and let it all sink in. Finally, we were on our way and wouldn’t be back for an entire year.

After enjoying Fourth of July festivities in Cape May, New Jersey, we ventured offshore for the 130-mile run to New York. As always, visiting the Big Apple by boat was a thrill, but after a couple of days we were eager to get underway and head up the Hudson River. Traveling north, the mountain scenery was animated with trains weaving up the riverbanks and tugboats heading downriver as we passed Bear Mountain and Bannerman Castle on Pollepel Island. We stopped in the friendly town of Kingston, New York, before reaching our first lock in Troy, 150 miles north of New York Harbor.

Once past Troy, we had a choice of turning west to the Erie Canal or continuing north to Lake Champlain. We chose north and began a delightful two-day, 64-mile trip on the Champlain Canal. Lake Champlain captivated us with its beautiful scenery, protected anchorages and charming towns. Burlington, Vermont, considered one of America’s prettiest towns, boasts excellent restaurants, unique shops and, of course, the original Ben & Jerry’s.

Beckoned by the sounds of French accents from our VHF, we cleared Canadian customs north of Rouses Point, New York, and headed up the Richelieu River bound for Montreal, less than 100 miles away. We stopped overnight in the quaint village of Chambly, Quebec, where we began our indulgent six-week tour of French cafes and bakeries. The gentle Richelieu River abruptly met the busy St. Lawrence, where we turned left toward Montreal. One of our few regrets of the trip is that we didn’t take a side trip to Quebec City, but we have that on our “to do” cruising list. Our slip in Port d’Escale du Vieux in the Old Port of Montreal was close to the action downtown, and the wonderful restaurants, cafes, shops and museums — all with a foreign flair — kept us entertained for days.

Cruising Tips

• Beware of marinas on the Hudson River that are exposed to the wakes of commercial river traffic. We like Liberty Landing Marina in Jersey City, New Jersey, for its protected docks and proximity to water taxi service to the Big Apple.
• Learn proper lock procedures. Wait for the green light before entering, and follow the lock keeper’s instructions about where to tie up. Don’t fasten your line to your cleats; lines need to run free as the water level rises or falls. Wear a life jacket while inside the locks.
• Have a valid passport for all U.S. citizens entering Canada and/or a certified birth certificate for children 15 or younger. A good source of information is gocanada.about.com.

Leg Two: Montreal to Lake Michigan Distance: 800 miles

From Montreal it was a three-day river trip to Ottawa, the capital of Canada. Ottawa’s dramatic entranceway features eight consecutive step locks that raised our boat 80 feet from the Ottawa River to the city level, and once there, we followed the river through the scenic city to Dows Lake. We took advantage of the attractive bike paths along the river to visit downtown and see the magnificent Parliament building.

Ottawa’s step locks are the beginning of the historic 125-mile Rideau Canal system that leads to Lake Ontario. Many of its 47 locks were built about 175 years ago and are still operated by hand. We took a week to transit this magical waterway, spending nights tied up along lock walls or anchored on Rideau Lake. At the suggestion of locals, we threaded our way through the entrance to Morton Bay, a well-protected anchorage surrounded by granite cliffs decorated with tall pines. As the moon rose over the horizon and the wail of a distant loon broke the evening silence, we knew we would never forget this enchanted place.

The Rideau Waterway ends just above Kingston, Ontario, an excellent place to stop and enjoy city life. We chose Confederation Basin Marina for its convenient location downtown. Dinner at Chez Piggy Restaurant and Bar was very French and very good, but an even bigger highlight was Vandervoort’s Hardware, where you can find just about anything: dock lines, charts, underwear, courtesy flags and much more.

We needed to poke our nose out onto Lake Ontario to reach Trenton, where the 240-mile Trent-Severn Waterway begins, and it was a rude awakening to Great Lakes cruising. Gusty winds and steep seas made for an uncomfortable ride until we reached the more protected Bay of Quinte. Soon, however, we were traveling from lock to lock and meeting fellow “loopers” on the tranquil Trent-Severn. Transiting the hydraulic Peterborough Lift Lock was a thrilling experience as our boat was lifted 65 feet in a chamber of 1,700 tons of water. A similar thrill was experienced at the Big Chute, where our boat was carried across 600 feet of rocky terrain on a giant marine railway.

Our route took us from this serene waterway to the rugged cruising grounds of the Thirty Thousand Islands of Georgian Bay and the wilds of the North Channel. We spent two weeks exploring these magnificent waters, kayaking and hiking during the day and building campfires on uninhabited islands at night. The water was clear, the skies were blue and the trees were bent hard over from the relentless, wind-swept winters. When looking back at our entire one-year trip, this was one of our favorite destinations.

Cruising Tips

• Take your time and enjoy the small towns along the Canadian waterways, spending your nights tied up along the lock walls where you’ll meet fellow “loopers.”
• Buy the series of Canadian Hydrographic Service Small Craft Charts, sometimes called “strip charts” (we bought ours in Montreal at McGill Maritime Services). The charts are aligned with the waterway’s orientation instead of being north-up. Follow them carefully in Georgian Bay and the North Channel. When in doubt, slow down. There are no soft bottoms up here.
• When traveling the canals and locks, cover your fenders with heavy-duty garbage bags to keep them clean from the scum along the lock walls.

Leg three: Michigan to Mobile, Alabama Distance: 1,600 miles

After checking in with U.S. Customs on Drummond Island, Michigan, we headed for Mackinac Island, the ­popular vacation destination 40 miles away. Known for its horse-drawn transportation (no cars are allowed except for emergency vehicles), it is technically part of a city but feels like a village with clean, noise-free air. Breakfast or afternoon tea at the legendary Grand Hotel is a must, as is a tour of Fort Mackinac.

All this civility came to an abrupt end during our 45-mile crossing to Beaver Island. Although the weather forecast called for mild conditions, as we approached the Straits of Mackinac we found ourselves in building seas and increasingly gusty winds. By the time we reached Grays Reef, punishing 8- to 10-foot seas were coming from several directions. Finally, we landed on Beaver Island and found our way to the Shamrock Restaurant and Pub to lick our wounds and embellish our stories with others who had been out in those miserable conditions.

Working our way south we discovered the charming Michigan communities of Harbor Springs, Leland, Pentwater and Saugatuck, each with its own friendly personality. High white-sand dunes stood out against blue skies. Sturdy breakwaters and lighthouses led the way to protected harbors. The clear, fresh waters were alive with whitefish, trout and yellow perch.

After two weeks we arrived in Chicago, where we immersed ourselves in city life and prepared for our six-week, 1,200-mile trek down the rivers. With changing water levels, heavy commercial traffic, river debris, lock delays and sections of scarce fuel, this leg can be more adventure than vacation, but for every challenge, there was an equal reward of discovery. The colorful, local knowledge at the series of anchored barges known as Hoppies Marine Services on the Mississippi. Paducah, Kentucky’s history-filled floodwall murals. The Land Between the Lakes National Recreation Area in western Kentucky. Elvis Presley’s birthplace in Tupelo, Mississippi. Catfish night at Bobby’s Fish Camp in Alabama. From the Illinois to the Mississippi and from the Ohio to the Tennessee-Tombigbee Waterway, we were seeing America from her own backyard.

Cruising Tips

• Prepare for unexpected delays at locks because commercial traffic has priority over recreational boaters.
• Buy a copy of Quimby’s Cruising Guide for marina locations and safe anchorages.
• Learn the correct “whistle” signals to communicate with towboat captains when passing or approaching. Call on your boat’s VHF and ask the captain on which side he wants you to pass. “Pass me on the one” means to pass to the towboat’s starboard side. “Pass me on the two” means to the towboat’s port side.
• Learn the basic inland navigational rules. Going downriver, red markers are to your port and green are to starboard. Buy the inland chart books that cover your entire route. They’re cheap compared with a damaged prop or worse.

Leg Four: Mobile to the Bahamas and back Distance: 1,600 miles

Six weeks was a long time on the rivers, and we were happy to see the open blue water and white-sand beaches along the barrier islands east of Mobile, Alabama. Pensacola, Panama City and Apalachicola were favorite stops along Florida’s panhandle, but even more interesting were the rivers and small towns of the big bend that turns southward toward Florida’s tip. Time stands still here, and the towns of Steinhatchee and Yankeetown are reminders of what Florida must have been like 50 or more years ago. Taking the time to explore the Steinhatchee, Withlacoochee and Crystal rivers, we were rewarded by their natural beauty and abundant wildlife.

In contrast, the high-rise buildings and McMansions along the busy waterways of Tampa, Sarasota and Naples were signs of today’s Florida, and we found ourselves moving briskly south to reach the Florida Everglades. (At this point, many “loopers” cut across Florida on the Okeechobee Waterway, skipping southern Florida.) An overnight visit to the Rod and Gun Club in Everglades City was a trip back in time because the walls are filled with photos and newspaper clippings of its famous clientele. Meandering among the Ten Thousand Islands National Wildlife Refuge, we anchored off sandy beaches and met adventurous kayakers exploring the 100-mile-long Wilderness Waterway.

Arriving in Key West, we discovered a different form of “wild life” and thoroughly enjoyed the change of pace. January is an ideal time to be in the Florida Keys, as the temperatures remain in the low 80s while other parts of Florida experience frost warnings. We waited in Fort Lauderdale for the right conditions to cross the Gulf Stream, and after a calm 50-mile passage to Cat Cay, we began a two-month odyssey of the Bahamas. It was February, which can be chilly in the Abacos, so we first headed to the Exumas, eventually reaching Georgetown, where we stayed for three weeks and enjoyed the company of fellow cruisers. As early spring approached, we headed to the more populous Abacos, spending two weeks cruising these delightful islands before heading back to West Palm Beach. Again looking back at our entire trip, the Bahamas were our favorite part along with Georgian Bay and the North Channel.

Cruising Tip

• Florida’s Big Bend is recommended for those looking for natural wildlife, not exciting night life. If your boat’s draft exceeds 5 feet, you’ll be better off skipping this area and heading to the west coast of Florida.
• Crossing the Gulf Stream requires waiting for the right conditions. Do not attempt the crossing if winds are out of the north.
• When traveling to the Bahamas during winter or early spring, head for the Exumas first, then the Abacos. The Abacos can be cool and windy in the winter.

Leg Five: West Palm Beach to Annapolis Distance: 1,050 Miles

After two glorious months in the islands, arriving in West Palm Beach on a busy weekend was like landing on another planet. We had no choice other than to adapt to the quickened pace and crowded waterways. By now we were used to the freedom of our live-aboard lives, and we weren’t overly eager to return to our former lifestyle. Thus began our leisurely two-month trip up the ICW to our home port of Annapolis.

Hopping from one Florida community to another, we spent extra time in both St. Augustine and Fernandina Beach. The architecture and historical significance of these charming cities were intriguing, and we were attracted by their cultural offerings. After leaving Fernandina Beach, we dropped our hook off nearby Cumberland Island in Georgia, where we hiked across the island in the company of wild horses.

Today, many parts of the ICW are experiencing serious shoaling problems, so we talked with fellow cruisers at critical stops for local advice. In some cases, we adjusted our schedule to pass through these areas on a mid- and rising tide. When conditions were favorable, we would run outside, avoiding trouble spots altogether. But since we had time, we mostly enjoyed poking along the waterway at displacement speeds.

Our favorite stops along the way included South Carolina’s Beaufort (pronounced BEEW-fort) and Charleston as well as North Carolina’s Southport, Beaufort (pronounced BO-fort) and Oriental. At this point, there are two routes north: the Dismal Swamp that goes through a wildlife refuge or the more direct Virginia Cut. Each winds up at Mile Marker 0 in Norfolk, Virginia.

From Norfolk, we slowly worked our way up the Chesapeake Bay — familiar ground for us. These last 100 miles were a time of reflection as we began to realize how this trip had changed our lives and given us a better appreciation of this magnificent part of the world we live in.

Cruising Tips

• When traveling the ICW in Florida, pay close attention to the manatee warning signs that require slowing down.
• The magenta line showing the ICW route on your paper and e-charts is no longer accurate in many areas, so follow the actual navigation aides to stay in the channel.
• Unless you have to, don’t rush your trip on the ICW. Slow down and enjoy its many unique towns and secluded anchorages.

The post The Great Loop Guide appeared first on Yachting.

It’s as predictable as Florida’s fall migration of snowbirds. When committed yachties retire, many feel compelled to take a slow boat in a “Great Loop” — up the East Coast, through the lakes and down the Mississippi. While I have not yet developed a taste for early-bird specials, this winter I had the urge to wander in a loop without the risk of another adventure at sea. Since dodging barges and stumps in fog on Ol’ Man River had no appeal, I began noodling a short cut — a “Little Loop”!

We would depart Stuart, Florida, heading up the St. Lucie River to transit the Okeechobee Waterway across the lake to the Caloosahatchee River and Fort Myers, 115 nautical miles. We would head north into Pine Island Sound to Captiva, another 25 nautical miles. From Captiva we would head down the Gulf of Mexico to Key West, 125 nautical miles; Key West to Islamorada, 82 nautical miles; and from Islamorada back to Stuart, 160 nautical miles. The route crosses some of the finest cruising waters in the United States, and there are so many great destinations along the way that my crew began debating the possibilities. Aboard Anhinga “the Captain” (me) steers and “the Admiral” (wife Nelia) chooses the direction. My son Casey chose to follow (most of the time) in our 18-foot Hewes skiff.

Part I: Stuart, Florida

The U.S. Army Corps of Engineers opened the Okeechobee Waterway in 1937, connecting Florida’s east and west coasts. Stuart is the perfect point of embarkation, and I suggest spending at least a night at Sunset Bay Marina & Anchorage. Whether dockside or swinging on a mooring, you are walking or rowing distance from “old town.” The small shops and restaurants range from quaint to upscale. Try the Black Marlin for exceptional tavern fare and Gusto for authentic Italian cooking. If you have more time to spend ashore, visit a few of the half-dozen custom tournament boatbuilders in town. Stuart is, after all, the “Sailfish Capital of the World.”

The St. Lucie lock is about six nautical miles from town, and we were on hand for the 9 a.m. opening. If you are crossing, checking the lake level is a must. In our case the channel was limited to about a five-foot draft and the St. Lucie lock (Stuart) and Franklin lock (Fort Myers) were on two-hour schedules. The three locks in between were all operating on demand. There are two routes across Okeechobee. The rim route around the southern edge of the lake is primitive (lots of gators) and scenic (lots of swamp) and worth the extra miles. However, since water was precious, we chose the deeper, more direct route across the lake to Clewiston.

If darkness falls during a crossing I recommend a stop at Roland Martin Marina in Clewiston. You will likely find an eclectic group of cruisers gathered around its country-and-western-flavored tiki bar. If you’re up early, guides are handy and the bass are enormous. We pushed on past Clewiston bound for the western half of the waterway. Along this stretch you will see the “other Florida” of cowboys and cattle, not condos and tourists. There are few transient berths on this leg, so timing is important. We were lucky, arriving at the Franklin lock for the 5 p.m. opening.

Part II: Fort Myers, Florida

Fort Myers Yacht Basin is on my short list of favored stops. It’s a public facility that delivers reasonably priced dockage and friendly service without an attitude. The dock office serves as a gathering place for cruisers and resident boaters to jawbone. It’s a short walk to downtown, and there are a number of decent dining choices. If you have the time, visit the Edison and Ford Winter Estates — it’s worth the cab fare. Here you will find the botanic research laboratory where Thomas developed rubber tires for Henry’s cars.

Part III: Pine Island Sound & Captiva Island, Florida

The run down the Caloosahatchee River and up Pine Island Sound is straightforward and pleasant. The South Seas Island Resort consumes the northern tip of Captiva Island. Formerly South Seas Plantation, it was nearly wiped off the map by Hurricane Charley in 2004. We last visited shortly after it reopened in 2006 and it was still a work in progress. Although the mangrove forests will take years to recover, a major beach re-nourishment project has paid off — the resort looks great. Veteran visitors should note that the channel into the marina has been moved and is no longer the straight shot I was tempted to try.

Armed with credit cards, my crew walked to the beach while I changed a hose — a poor choice! Bird-watching and shelling are best in the early morning since overstuffed guests are lounging under umbrellas by noon, taking advantage of the small beachside restaurant and bar. For those who feel compelled to whack a little white ball, the resort’s petite course is said to be one of the “top five short courses in the world.” I have no taste for the sport, but my crew coerced me into action. I will admit that playing barefoot at the edge of the Gulf is not so bad.

However, it is Pine Island Sound, not resort living, that draws us to this area. Boarding the Hewes skiff, we headed for the unspoiled beaches of Cayo Costa State Park. Here you may see a 150-pound tarpon patrolling the shallows or a wild hog routing on the beach for a seafood dinner. It’s yet another pleasant reminder of what Florida was once like. A stop at Cabbage Key for lunch is something of a tradition for us. The pint-size island is just a few miles away, and the former estate turned boating bar and restaurant is perched atop an ancient Indian shell mound. Rustic cottages and rooms are available.

The nearby Useppa Island Club is old Florida at its best. Abandoned by the Indians, pirates and confederates, Useppa Island became a haunt for anglers in the 1880s. Barron Collier purchased the island in 1911 and updated the inn to suit a more refined clientele. Vanderbilts, Rockefellers and Rothschilds all visited the island, and the CIA arrived in 1960 to prepare for the Bay of Pigs invasion. The island is private; however, nonmembers may visit for lunch from South Seas Island Resort aboard a Captiva Cruises vessel.

Part IV: Key West

Redfish Pass defines the northern tip of South Seas’ property and allows easy access to the Gulf. We cleared it just after sunup and headed straight for Key West. If the weather is challenging, I suggest running inside to Fort Myers. If the wind is out of the east, it is possible to run in the lee of the land down the coast to Cape Sable and along the edge of Florida Bay. Our passage was perfect and a pleasant change from typically choppy east coast fare.

Key West is approached easily from the Gulf or Hawk Channel on the Atlantic side. Called “Cayo Hueso” (Island of Bones) by Spanish explorers for its dismal Indian history, the English mottled the name into Key West. A melting pot for Cubans and Bahamians, the town has had its highs and lows as a center for wrecking, cigar-making and sponging. Today, tourism rules, and while the crowd can be overwhelming, it’s still my favorite spot in Florida. To find old Key West, avoid the temptations of Duval Street. Be a noob and buy a ticket on the conch train to get your bearings. There is something in this town for everybody, and I mean everybody, so check the local events calendar for the right fit! Good food is a short walk away. You can’t miss at the A&B Lobster House (upstairs), the Roof Top Café or the bar at Bagatelle. For decent music try the Hog’s Breath Saloon. We have stayed at most of the marinas and they’re all about the same: pricey. If you have a skiff, be sure to visit Woman Cay (11 nautical miles west) — the water is better than in the Bahamas!

Plus, visit the websites for Galleon Marina and A&B Marina.

Part V: Islamorada

The run north to Islamorada inside the reef was sloppy — don’t underestimate Hawk Channel. Our pick for parking is always Plantation Yacht Harbor (bay side) in Founders Park. Mind the tide when passing through Snake Creek if you draw more than four feet. The park has a beach (rare in the Keys), tennis courts and a pool. The adjacent bay waters are gin clear in the summer and ideal for an afternoon swim. Food is a skiff ride away — try sunset at Marker 88. For a taste of local history and great food, check out the Hungry Tarpon at Robbie’s Marina. Its vintage bunkerlike construction was likely inspired by the devastating 1935 hurricane — a memorial to the storm is just a few miles away. While most visit the area to dive, a trip into the backcountry with rod or camera is a must. Try Capt. Matt at Bamboo charters.

I usually run from Islamorada to Stuart in one shot to avoid the big cities. With a draft of less than five feet, I run the inside route up Biscayne Bay and into the Atlantic at Cape Florida. If weather allows, I run north offshore, taking advantage of the Gulf Stream current. Should the weather be iffy, remember that Port of Miami, Port Everglades and Lake Worth inlets are only the “best choices” — don’t take ground swells for granted. I find Jupiter Inlet more difficult than Stuart’s St. Lucie Inlet, although lately it’s a tossup because St. Lucie is shoaling. If I stop along the way, Pier Sixty-Six in Fort Lauderdale or Sailfish Marina Resort in West Palm Beach usually get my vote.

Fortunately we were “weathered in” in Islamorada for weeks — a rum front! The point, however, is that epic cruises can be optimized and we could have pulled this one off comfortably in two or three weeks.

There you have it — a great loop you can enjoy cruising without being retired!

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